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MEDINA ANDALUSÍ DE VÉLEZ-MÁLAGA

Descripción:

Velez-Malaga or Balish, as it was called in Arabic, was part of the history of al-Andalus throughout its different periods until the date of its conquest in 1487.
Since its foundation by the Andalusians in the 9th century, it grew in size and relevance until it became an important medina, mainly in the last period of the history of al-Andalus: the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada. As a medina it had minimal urban functions of defense (walls and citadel), religious (aljama mosque) and juridical-administrative (presence of cadi or judge and governor). The city was structured in the citadel, of which very little remains of the original, the medina (neighborhood of La Villa) with its walls and its four gates and the suburbs outside the walls of the medina. It also had a Jewish quarter and the neighborhood of the Gumara, military of North African origin in charge of its defense. Hardly anything has been left of its baths, souk and alcaicería, which made it so famous. However, it still preserves some exceptional monuments and Andalusian urban planning can be recognized in these historic areas of the city. Ibn Battuta, the great traveler of the 14th century, said of it: “It is a good city, with an extraordinary mosque. In it there are grapes, fruits and figs, as many as in Malaga”.

ARCO-MIHRAB NAZARÍ

Descripción:

The Mihrab of Balish is a unique monument, a jewel of the historical, artistic and cultural heritage of Velez-Malaga.
It was part of a small mosque built in the XIII-XIV centuries located in the suburb of the Gumara, a tribe of North African origin in charge of the defense of the city. After the conquest in 1487, the mosque was consecrated as the Church of the Holy Cross, but soon after it was abandoned and used as a dwelling. The mihrab was part of the courtyard and was used as a cupboard. The mihrab is a horseshoe arch with an internal space located in the center of the wall of the mosque that indicates the quibla or direction in which to orient oneself for prayer. It retains the original brick and plaster with which it was built, and its rich decoration is of three types: vegetal (ataurique), geometric and epigraphic (religious inscriptions in Arabic). On its left band one can read: “… whoever believes in God and in the Last Day, fulfill the prayer, give alms…”

ALCAZABA DE BALISH

Descripción:

The alcazaba of Balish (Velez-Malaga) is the most emblematic enclosure, origin of the city and seat of its power.
The term alcazaba comes from the Arabic al-qasaba and designates a fortified enclosure of urban character. Some remains from the Bronze Age have been found on the site of the alcazaba, but it had its greatest splendor during the Nasrid period (13th, 14th and 15th centuries). It had towers along its enclosure, pavilions for various uses, mosque, official room, kitchen, cistern and other dependencies. Outside it was a dense urban development with houses crowded together as if they resisted going out to the suburbs and lose the protection of the walls that surrounded and protected the medina forming a belt around it, part of which are preserved. It was therefore the seat of power throughout the Andalusian period until the conquest in 1487, after which it maintained its military function until 1664. From then on it began a gradual oblivion and its deterioration mainly due to the transformations carried out by the French in the nineteenth century. Then, at the beginning of the 20th century, it was almost totally destroyed when it was sold and exploited as a lime quarry. Only a small remnant of its main tower remained visible, which was popularly known as “the finger” because of its resemblance seen from afar. Its subsequent restorations and reconstructions were made without any archaeological or scientific criteria, as can be seen in its tower.

RUTA “MADINAT BALISH”

Descripción:

The “Madinat Balish” Route is offered in the traditional format of a dramatized guided route and another of a didactic nature, such as a gymkhana for educational centers, and is carried out in both Spanish and English.
It consists of a tour of the ancient Andalusian city of Velez. The most outstanding places are visited and explained: the minaret, the mihrab, the cisterns, the walls and gates, the towers, etc. .
In addition, the traditional dried figs, raisins and almonds are distributed. Four characters accompany us with their performances:
– The traveler. In her performance she talks about the importance of Balish and says some quotes and sayings such as: “The fig tree of Balish, whoever arrives hangs on it his little fox”.
– Abulqasim Benegas. Last Nasrid governor of Balish whose performance is about the fall of Balish in 1487.
– Abu Llaafar Az-zayyat. A renowned Sufi master and poet from Balish who speaks about his life and work and recites some of his poems in Arabic and Spanish: “Let me submit to the empire of love / perhaps the Beloved will be sweet and accommodating to us”.
– Al-Balishía (La Veleña). Her performance deals with her character as a woman and poetess, and daily life in the medina. She recites her only known poem in Arabic.
It begins in the Plaza La Constitución next to the walls, and ends in the Plaza de San Francisco next to the Andalusian minaret. The duration of the tour is approximately two and a half hours. At the end, brochures are distributed and participants are given their names written in Arabic on an Arabic booklet.

CASTILLO DE BENTOMIZ

Descripción:

Bentomiz Castle is mentioned in the 11th century memoirs of the Zirid King Abdallah of Granada: “I saw that it was a very large castle where the inhabitants of the vicinity had gathered.I proposed to them to submit… and as in the castle there were also gathered some bandits, people of bad character, I made them propositions so that they would come to my party”.
Among the important characters, the following stand out:
-Othman ibn Yahya ibn Muhammad ibn Mansur, from an illustrious Sevillian family, was cadi of Bentomiz (Monte Mas).
– Alí Ibn Ahmad Ibn al-Hasan al-Madhiyi, native of Bentomiz. He studied in Bentomiz and Velez with Abu Abd-Allah al-Qamad and Abu Yaffar Ibn al-Zayyat. He was cadi (20 years) in Bentomiz and Malaga.
-Ali Ibn Ahmad Ibn Muhammad al-Hasni, “of the farmhouse of Batarxis, belonging to the territory of Monte Mas, in the east of Malaga”.
He was archivist in Malaga and preacher in the mosque of its citadel. He devoted much time to writing a History of Mecca.
Luis del Mármol Carvajal masterfully describes the landscape of the taha of Bentomiz in 1568: “All this land of Bentomiz is very fragrant, although fertile, populated with many groves, abundant with cold and healthy springs, from which come many streams of clear water that flow down between the rocks and stones of those valleys, and taking them out in ditches on the slopes, the inhabitants irrigate their gardens and farms”.
Washington Irving points out that when the Christians arrived on April 15, 1487 to conquer Velez, it was an Andalusian village “powerfully fortified, named Bentomiz, and that because of its proximity it was always considered capable of providing great help to Velez-Malaga”.
Bentomiz stood out in other aspects such as being the head of his taha with important warden and cadis, and had educational centers of relevance. The taha would correspond to the current municipalities of Arenas, Frigiliana, Algarrobo, Nerja, Torrox, Sayalonga, Competa, Archez, Canillas de Albaida, Canillas de Aceituno, Sedella, Salares and part of Alcaucin.

PUERTA REAL

Descripción:

The medina of Balish was surrounded and protected by a wall and the access to it could be done by four doors: three main doors and another one that gave access to the suburbs.This is the only one that has been preserved.Currently it has the name of Puerta Real in reference to the Catholic Monarchs, who crossed it to, after the conquest of the city in 1487, go through the main street of the medina (now Calle Real de la Villa) to the main mosque (now the church of Santa Maria).It is a defensive gate.It has its access in a bend with arches that in origin would probably be horseshoe arches and is protected by a large rectangular tower that, like a watchtower, served as an advanced defense of access to the walled medina.

ALMINAR ANDALUSÍ DE DAIMALOS

Descripción:

It is one of the oldest in Spain, much older than those of the neighboring municipalities of Árchez, Corumbela and Salares, and twin brother of the one that existed in the town of Arenas. The interior of the minaret is very narrow, since it only allowed the passage of the muezzin. It has square plant and elevation of four bodies of different height, delimited by highlighted imposts. The first body presents the closed parameter to expression of a rectangular vain opened in its north face. In its interior it is composed of a quadrangular staircase that develops in tone to a central buttress, supporting its different sections in small barrel vaults. The second body, of less height, shows in the exterior parameter, in three of its sides, four pointed and blind horseshoe arches of rough termination and squares of bricks to rope and tizón. The third body, possible top of the old minaret, presents in its four faces the closed parameter. The last section, a Mudejar work, rests on a triple-staggered flying impost. In its four fronts there are openings with lowered semicircular openings that house bells. The tower covers to four waters using as support of armor of four triangular cloths with beams of triangular section and wooden plank of light color.

PAISAJE DE PASEROS Y LAGARES DE ALMACHAR Y EL BORGE

Descripción:

The production of raisins is nowadays in decline in the Malaga region and 40% is concentrated in the municipalities of El Borge and Almáchar. However, the cultivation of the vine and the production of raisins continue to give its personality to the whole of the eastern region of Malaga. The traditional landscape of the Andalusian Axarquia is still recognizable in the hills covered with the green of almond trees, olive trees and vines, with streams that span and give life to small valleys. The white architecture of the wine presses and raisins stands out and contrasts, offering a rich and original visual landscape, but also cultural, full of traditions and festivals linked to the cultivation and harvesting of grapes and the production of raisins.
We have references to the cultivation of vineyards in the Montes de Málaga (Santopítar and Jotrón) in the texts that speak of the military campaigns of Abd al-Rahman III against the rebel Omar Ibn Hafsún. Later, during the Nasrid period, export agriculture was imposed, which was based on products such as raisins. At that time the raisins were also mentioned as an element of its production, and in places like Macharaviaya the alaçer tax was paid for the raisins.
After the conquest of the territory by the Christians, export continued to be the objective of agriculture and the production of raisins continued to be linked to the work of the Moors, who produced them in the sun and lye modalities. A document of the time tells us that the Moriscos moved moved during the month of September from the villages to the small houses, on the other side of the mountains, to make raisins and celebrate the Passover of the alaçeres, out of sight of the Christians.

FORTALEZA DE COMARES “LA TAHONA”

Descripción:

The Andalusian fortress or hisn of Comares was built during the IX-X centuries. During the Nasrid period it must have extended around the present urban center. At present only the remains of two towers (Tahona grande and Tahona chica) and scattered fragments of walls are preserved. It was of great importance during the fitna or Christian rebellion of the 10th century led by Omar Ibn Hafsun against the Cordovan Caliph Abderrahman III, which is recounted in the work al-Muqtabis by Ibn Hayyan. In it we can read: “…sending against Comares, the main of them, an army of rabid champions who fought against his people until making them abandon the field and hide in the fortress”. Later, the fortress of Comares was used as a refuge by the Hammudid caliphs (Taifa of Malaga, 11th century). In the 13th century the powerful Ashqilula family became strong in Comares and opposed the Nasrids until they were defeated and Comares was taken by the Nasrid sultan Muhammad II. At this time the fortress must have extended around the town.

CASTILLO "EL CUBO" Y CENTRO DE INTERPRETACIÓN DE LAS ATALAYAS Y TORREONES

Historia:

In 1506 the Catholic Monarchs themselves stayed in that castle on their way through Langa. Years later, Enrique Enríquez, bastard brother of Leonor of Castile (daughter of Ferdinand III the Saint and Queen of England), was imprisoned in its tower, managing to escape thanks to a rope provided by the same neighbors. Centuries before, the Cid held the tenancy of the tower after suffering his first exile.

FORTALEZA DE ZALIA

Descripción:

The fortress of Zalia was the head of the taha of the same name, which covered a large territory. To this taha would correspond the current municipalities of Periana, Zafarraya, Alfarnate, Alfarnatejo, La Viñuela and part of Alcaucín.

VILLA Y MEDINA DE ÁGREDA

Descripción:

The medina would have all the typical structures of any Islamic city: mosques, baths, fountains, houses and narrow streets. Possibly there were two mosques: that of the “Valladar” and that of “la Muela”, whose testimony is the toponym “Calle Mezquitas”. Also, tradition places on the other side of the ravine, opposite the Caliphate Gate, the Muslim necropolis.

Historia:

The own configuration of the urban helmet speaks to us of the vital and restless history of Ágreda. Their labyrinthine and irregular alleys remind us that in the conformation and modeling of the Villa the three cultures intervened: Moslem, Hebrew and Christian. In the year 415 the Visigoths arrived, who remained until the Arab domination having proof of the Muslim presence in the Villa already in the year 713. During the Emirate of Córdoba, Ágreda becomes a fortified city installed on the old castro of La Muela, with its corresponding Medina and Alcazaba.

TORREÓN DE NOVIERCAS

Descripción:

Once inside, a trapdoor gives access to a large vaulted chamber that houses a well supplied by a spring. This semi-buried chamber, which likely served as a granary, and its spring, would have ensured resilience during a prolonged siege. As we ascend through the floors, we find two arrow slits on the south and east faces, whose purpose was solely to illuminate the interior of the tower. The last third of the tower, including the machicolations and parapets on the rooftop, is of more recent construction, dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. The entire tower was defended by at least one barrier that surrounded it, remnants of which can still be seen in the surrounding houses (which form a semi-circle around the tower) in the form of thick facades or some visible remains.

Historia:

What stands out is its location, as it is not situated on a hill or rock outcrop, as is typical, but in an isolated settlement. Its tower served the purpose of surveillance and defense for the local population against possible attacks. These occupations, throughout much of the Campo de Gómara and the Rituerto basin, would have occurred between the 9th and 11th centuries, prompted by favorable conditions for repopulation, or as a first line of defense since Medinaceli became the capital of the Marca Media.

CASTILLO DE BERLANGA DE DUERO

Descripción:

Berlanga de Duero, a town declared a Historic-Artistic Site, was of great importance in the 12th century for its role in the Christian conquest. Alongside Gormaz and Osma, also located in Soria, it was a well-fortified Muslim border stronghold. Its 15th-century castle stands atop a cliff, protected by a 16th-century wall. Notable is its slender keep tower with eight guardhouses of various sizes. The castle consists of an original mudbrick wall from the Muslim era. A second enclosure, formed by twenty semicircular turrets, surrounds the remains of a 16th-century palace. In essence, there are two castles: one inside the other. The original has a rectangular tower, and the later one retains the earlier structure while adding four more towers. Its trapezoidal plan encircles the remnants of the previous fortress. It features four giant circular towers with no openings except those used for defense. The gunports are crafted to prevent artillery balls from bouncing off. The castle is made of well-cut ashlar stone. The keep is located to the southwest of the fortress. The original keep is a slender 15th-century rectangular tower with eight guardhouses of various sizes and is surrounded by remnants of the old wall. Next to it stands a later circular tower, built in the 16th century.

Historia:

In 1059, Fernando I of Castile, during a swift military campaign in the Upper Duero, took Gormaz and then moved on to Vadorrey, Aguilera, and later to Berlanga de Duero, where the Muslims, before fleeing, broke the wall in several places. These events led to the first repairs and renovations of the castle. In 1370, Berlanga passed into the hands of the Tovar family. Juan Fernández de Tovar, the first lord of Berlanga from this lineage and Admiral of Castile, was responsible for further modifications to the castle.

FORTALEZA CALIFAL DE GORMAZ

Descripción:

The caliphate fortress of Gormaz, the largest of its kind in Europe, is located on a cretaceous hill with an elongated shape that can be seen from many kilometers away in the Soria plain. It became the origin and bastion of numerous raids or attacks by Muslim troops on the Christian lands north of the Duero River. The fort adapts perfectly to the profile of the summit on which it stands. It was built using ashlar stone, with two enclosures separated by a moat. In the alcázar, a keep tower marks the prominence of this space, accompanied by several other towers. The rest of the fortification, which spans more than 1000 meters in perimeter and features walls over 10 meters high, was where the troops, pack animals, and cavalry of the army, along with storage for tools and war materials, were housed. Additionally, there was a square-shaped water reservoir that provided water to the inhabitants and guests of the castle. More than 20 towers reinforce the defense of the fortress, built with the same masonry as the walls between the towers, using the “soga y tizón” construction technique.

Historia:

On the elongated hill where the fortress stands, there must have been a military structure since the 9th century, although smaller than the current one, as it would have only occupied the western sector of the hill. As the Kingdoms of León and Castile pushed their border southwards to the Duero River, the Cordobans fortified the so-called Marca Media (Middle March) in the lands of Soria and Guadalajara, with the fortress of Medinaceli as its main center. Therefore, Caliph Alhaquem II ordered General Gálib to expand this castle between 956 and 966 as a defensive stronghold on the Duero against Christian incursions.

ERMITA DE SAN BAUDELIO

Descripción:

Its exterior appearance is very simple, with only the horseshoe arch door standing out. Inside, all the walls were covered with paintings created using a mixed technique, both fresco and tempera, in Romanesque and Mozarabic styles, some of which are still preserved there, while others were removed. The structure consists of two rectangular bodies made of masonry; the access door features a double horseshoe arch in the archivolts and jambs. In the area behind the apse, there is a medieval rock-cut necropolis with more than twenty anthropomorphic-shaped graves, roughly carved, and in some cases, arranged like a pantheon.

Historia:

The Hermitage of San Baudelio de Berlanga, located in the district of Casillas de Berlanga, is a Mozarabic construction from the second half of the 11th century, built during the reign of Ferdinand I’s conquests. A diverse iconographic program is developed in the mural paintings created in the mid-12th century, using a mixed technique of fresco and tempera. The themes of the paintings revolve around episodes from the New Testament, complemented by scenes taken from Muslim repertories. Part of these mural paintings were removed in 1926 and were transferred to various museums in the United States.

CASTILLO DE CALATAÑAZOR

Descripción:

The castle dates back to the 12th century, occupying the highest point of the spur on which the town is built. Two centuries later, it was renovated. The fortress is organized in a rectangular enclosure with corner towers and a Keep (Torre del Homenaje) on the eastern wall. The protective enclosure of the bastion is defended by circular and square towers, which connect with the wall that surrounds the town. A moat reinforces the defense on the eastern side near the town. The structure of the Keep, recently restored and open for visits, is built with masonry and ashlar at the corners, with the window openings framed. One of these, in Gothic style, tells us about the historical period when the fortress served its function.

Historia:

The castle of Calatañazor was commissioned by Infante Don Pedro as part of the royal defense system against the Infantes of the House of Larrea, during a period of political and social instability in the 14th century. It is located to the southwest of the walled town, separated by an artificial moat that was crossed by a drawbridge. The interior has an irregular layout adapted to the terrain, with corner towers and square towers. Externally, it was protected by another walled enclosure, resting on the edge of the cliff and flanked by circular towers at its ends. Notable features include the rectangular keep, with an elevated entrance, and the weapons courtyard.

VILLA Y MEDINA DE MEDINACELI

Descripción:

On a hill near the present-day town of Medinaceli, there was a Celtiberian settlement. In 153 BC, the Roman consul Fulvio Nobilior set up a camp in Medinaceli during his advance into Celtiberian territory, only to be defeated shortly after by the Numantines. After the Romans conquered Celtiberia, Occilis, as the city was called at that time, experienced remarkable growth. In a few years, it acquired the status of municipium, the highest administrative category among Roman cities. Its decline occurred, like many other Roman cities, during the Late Empire, with a significant loss of population.

Medinaceli would regain an important role in history during the Arab domination. At the end of the 10th century, Galib, following instructions from Abderramán III, established a series of fortresses and watchtowers to prevent the advance of the Christians and made Madinat Salim the political capital of this border system known as the Marca Media. As the main city of the area, Almanzor organized his campaigns of harassment against the Christian kingdoms from Medinaceli until he was defeated and wounded in the Battle of Calatañazor. According to various chronicles, later corroborated by historians such as Evariste Levy-Provençal and Ramón Menéndez Pidal, the Andalusian leader fell ill during what would ultimately be his last campaign, aimed at San Millán de la Cogolla. He had to return to Medinaceli, where he died in 1002.Como ocurría con otras plazas fuertes importantes, Medinaceli fue codiciada y ocupada alternativamente por cristianos y musulmanes. Pasa definitivamente a manos cristianas tras ser conquistada por Alfonso I el Batallador en 1123. Los reyes cristianos acometen nuevos trabajos de reparación y fortificación de la muralla y, entre otras obras, edifican el castillo sobre la primitiva fortaleza andalusí.

CASTILLO- FORTALEZA DE OSMA

Descripción:

The building consisted of three walled enclosures with an irregular layout, adapting to the intricate topography of the hill. The original and modest enclosure had two towers built with materials from the Uxama archaeological site; materials that, centuries later, would be used in the foundation of the Cathedral of El Burgo de Osma. The layout and elevation of the inner enclosure at the top of the hill remain virtually intact, as well as the access gate, much of the tall walls, and two towers, one of which is the keep. The second tower serves as the starting point of the second enclosure, of which only a few remains have survived.

Historia:

In 934, the rock was refortified by Ramiro II of León, who built new sections of the wall. The appearance it had in the 10th century does not differ greatly from what it maintains today. A small military contingent controlled this defense, and ingenious solutions had to be used to effectively face the imposing and numerous Caliphate army camped at a short distance in Gormaz Castle. To give an idea of the military potential of the Muslims, it is worth mentioning that the archers’ corps of Abderramán III, the first caliph of Córdoba, was composed of 7,000 soldiers.

VILLA DE ALMAZÁN

Descripción:

A watchtower gave the place its name, with the Arabic toponym that translates to fortress. Around this watchtower, small houses gradually clustered to form a primitive village, consolidating the settlement as a forward position occupying the high part of the hill known as El Cinto. Its location at the top of a watchtower and at the edge of the Duero River makes it a public space with excellent and privileged landscape value, sharing prominence with the 12th-century walls, the 12th-century Church of San Miguel, and the 15th-century Palace of the Hurtado de Mendoza. The Walls of Almazán represent one of the main civil heritage ensembles of the Adnamantino heritage.

Historia:

It was taken by Alfonso VI, who began its repopulation. From the beginning of the 12th century, Almazán gained significant importance as it lay on the borderline between the kingdoms of Castile and Aragon. In 1128, the Aragonese king Alfonso I the Battler fortified the town and took refuge there, being pushed back by the advances of the Castilian king Alfonso VII. Almazán hosted numerous kings and princes on various occasions, such as the Catholic Monarchs, Prince Don Juan, and King Philip II.

CASTILLO DE SAN ESTEBAN DE GORMAZ

Descripción:

The castle of San Esteban de Gormaz has an elongated and narrow shape, and only a long stretch of wall and some cisterns and underground constructions remain of it.


Historia:

The castle of San Esteban de Gormaz was built by the Muslims and later renovated by the Christians. San Esteban de Gormaz was attacked by Abderramán III in the years 917 and 920, and was captured on the second occasion. Shortly after, it was recaptured by the Christians, and later lost again by Count García Fernández, until finally, in the year 1011, Soleyman handed it over to Sancho García as part of a pact for the help received against the Caliphate of Córdoba. According to the Cantar del Mío Cid, the daughters of El Cid were brought to this town after being dishonored and abandoned by the Infantes de Carrión, in the event known as the Afrenta de Corpes, near Castillejo de Robledo.

CASTILLO DE CARACENA

Descripción:

The keep tower is located at the southwest of the fortress. The original tower, a slender rectangular structure from the 15th century, features eight garitones of varying sizes and is surrounded by remnants of the ancient wall. Next to it stands a later circular tower, built in the 16th century. The location offers a spectacular view, as the hill provides a commanding view of the town of Caracena, which lies about one kilometer away. The area is protected by canyons that lead to the Caracena River.

Historia:

The keep is located to the southwest of the fortress. The original one is a slender rectangular tower from the 15th century, with eight turrets of various sizes and surrounded by the remains of the ancient wall. Next to it stands a later, circular tower built in the 16th century. The site offers a spectacular view, with a commanding position over the town of Caracena, located about a kilometer away. This area is protected by cannons that lead to the Caracena River.

CLAUSTRO DE SAN JUAN DE DUERO

Descripción:

The cloister, dating from the early 13th century, is the only remaining monastic structure and is considered one of the most original examples of Spanish Romanesque architecture due to the variety and influences present in its design. It features Romanesque traces, pointed arches that tend towards the horseshoe shape, interlacing arches, and others that are secant. The chamfered corners, clearly influenced by Arab architecture, are crowned with caliphal arches. The absence of a roof adds to its originality, preserving its unique aesthetic.

Historia:

In the 12th century, the Order of the Hospitallers of Saint John of Jerusalem established themselves here, reforming an existing Romanesque church and constructing the rest of the monastery. After many years of abandonment, the site was declared a National Monument in 1882. Later, it became an annex of the Numantine Museum.

CASTILLO DE ALMENAR

Descripción:

The fortress consists of two enclosures with towers and is surrounded by a moat. The structure of the fortification has a square plant and cylindrical towers at the corners; the walls are finished with battlements. An advanced fortified enclosure, resembling a barbican, was constructed to protect the first line of defense.

Historia:

The Castillo de Almenar has Arab origins and underwent significant modifications in the 15th century. It belonged to several noble families, including the Bravo de Sanabria, Saravia, and Ríos families. The castle inspired Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer in his legends, and after its abandonment, it was used as a Guardia Civil barracks in the 20th century. A plaque commemorates the birthplace of Leonor, the wife of the great poet Antonio Machado, at this location. It is one of the best-preserved castles in the province of Soria. Currently privately owned, it is also one of the main filming locations for the series El Cid.

FIESTA DE LA SOLDADESCA DE IRUECHA

Descripción:

The last Saturday of the penultimate weekend in August, the town of Iruecha witnesses the spectacular invasion by the “Moorish army,” who attempts to seize the image of the Virgin, profaning the town’s festivals and trying to impose their own cult and religion. In response, the Christians fiercely defend the image of the Virgin Mary with their weapons.

After a verbal confrontation between both sides on horseback, in which they exchange verses in a poetic dialogue, a sword fight ensues. One of the most recent additions to the festival is the inclusion of an infantry army of 40 people, adding color and spectacle to the Soldadesca de Iruecha, which has become a leading event in Soria’s August festivities.

The event concludes with the Christians receiving angelic intervention, ensuring their victory and the subsequent conversion of the Muslims.

Historia:

The earliest documented records of its celebration date back to the first third of the 18th century (1728). However, it is most likely that ‘La Soldadesca’, like the ‘Moors and Christians fight’, began around 1198, when the peasant cavalry from the villages of the Sierra del Solorio, led by a local lord, defeated the Almohad expedition in a nearby location.

While it may have been a mere skirmish, the event was certainly celebrated with great enthusiasm by the surrounding towns, to the point that it became an annual tradition.

FIESTA DE LAS MÓNDIDAS

Descripción:

The Móndidas are three young women dressed in elaborate attire who carry baskets on their heads containing a round loaf of saffron-colored bread. At the center of the bread is a small wooden stick, and from the edges of the basket to the top of the stick, countless multicolored ribbons are tied, creating a conical headpiece of great visual impact. This headpiece is reminiscent of the gothic headpieces worn by medieval ladies, or even the hats of the condemned during the Inquisition, not to mention the pointed hats of witches.

According to medieval tradition, the “Tribute of the 100 Virgins” began in the year 783 when the weak Asturian king, Mauregato, who had usurped the throne, was forced to accept the tribute in exchange for the powerful troops of Abd al-Rahman I respecting his small kingdom. The tradition continues that the tribute ended in 859 when King Ramiro I refused to make the despised payment to Abd al-Rahman III, whose army responded by attacking La Rioja, but was defeated in the Battle of Clavijo, thanks to the miraculous appearance of Saint James and the valor of the Christian army.

Besides the Fiesta de las Móndidas in San Pedro de Manrique, other festivals are still celebrated in Spain to commemorate these events according to tradition (in Astorga, León, Sorzano, etc.).

However, modern historians argue that the Tribute of the 100 Virgins never actually existed, and that both its supposed existence and the appearance of Saint James at Clavijo were inventions of the 12th century to justify the imposition of the Voto de Santiago, a tax collected from the inhabitants of Galicia, León, and parts of Castile for the benefit of the canons of Santiago de Compostela.

MURALLA ANDALUSÍ DE ÁGREDA

Descripción:

Ágreda preserves significant architectural remnants from its Andalusian past, with the oldest traces found in the Barrio Moro (Moorish Quarter), where part of the wall, dating back to the Emiral period, still stands. This wall was constructed using finely dressed stone and includes two remarkable gates: the Emiral Arab Gate and the Water Gate. Ágreda was one of the oldest medinas preserved in Spain and among the few Moorish quarters with its own enclosure, making it one of the largest in the Kingdom of Castile.

The primary occupations of its residents included artisanal industries, particularly textiles, tanning, and pottery. The community enjoyed certain privileges and autonomy under the Crown, granted in exchange for maintaining and defending the medieval walls through duties such as guard shifts at the gates.

After a series of forced conversions to Christianity and inquisitorial trials, the Moriscos were expelled from Ágreda, as from the rest of the Iberian Peninsula, in the 17th century.

When territories previously under Al-Andalus were conquered by Christian monarchs, Muslims could either emigrate to other Andalusian territories or remain under Christian rule under specific conditions. They could retain their religious practices and some autonomy but were often restricted to living in designated neighborhoods (Morerías), barred from certain professions, and prohibited from exercising authority over Christians. These Muslims under Christian rule were known as Mudéjares. Over time, their rights were increasingly restricted, culminating in forced conversions to Christianity in the early 16th century, after which they were called Moriscos. Their final expulsion was decreed in the early 17th century.

Historia:

Ágreda had four walled enclosures, built over the centuries as independent fortifications rather than successive expansions. Christians, Muslims, and Jews all left their mark on the history, art, architecture, and customs of the town, which had one of the most significant aljamas (Jewish quarters) and Mudejar communities of the time. The Andalusian wall was the first defensive barrier erected in Ágreda.

PUERTAS ÁRABES DE ÁGREDA

Descripción:

The Emiral Arch, also known as the Water Gate, was built at the end of the 8th century or the beginning of the 9th century. It features a gently curved horseshoe arch made of irregular voussoirs with radial arrangement. This gate provided access to the Alcazaba, the fortified enclosure within the walled city that served as a refuge for the garrison. This gate, along with the adjacent wall connecting it to the tower, is one of the most valuable examples of Islamic architecture in Ágreda due to its antiquity.

The Emiral Arab Gate is also known as the Cemetery Gate, as it faces the hill where the Muslim necropolis was located.

CASTILLO DE MEDINACELI

Descripción:

The current construction can be dated to the 14th century and was built using ashlar and rubble masonry with a rectangular floor plan and cylindrical reinforcements in three of its corners; the keep, by contrast, is a square prism. Nothing remains of the original interior structure, as the space now houses the town’s necropolis, though the subterranean stables of the alcazaba still survive. The walls do not preserve loopholes, embrasures, or battlements. The entrance to the interior is through a semi-circular arch made of voussoirs. The fortress was under the domain of Alfonso the Battler of Aragon in the 12th century. Earlier, the Cantar de Mio Cid recounts the passage and stay of Jimena and her daughters on their way to Valencia, conquered by El Cid. Later, they fell victim to the Afrenta de Corpes inflicted by the Infantes of Carrión.

MURALLAS DE MEDINACELI

Descripción:

One of the most interesting parts of the wall is the Arab Gate or Market Gate. Despite its name, the Arab Gate was not built by Muslim hands: its foundations are Roman, and the pointed arch of the Gothic-Mudejar style that we see today may have replaced an earlier horseshoe or semi-circular arch, according to experts. The gate is also known as the Market Gate, as it was one of the most frequented entrances to the town, with merchants setting up and displaying their goods nearby. The small size of its opening was due to defensive considerations; the gates of walls were the most vulnerable points, and the smaller the opening, the easier they were to defend.

MURALLAS DE ALMAZÁN

Descripción:

The remains from the Muslim period are scarce, with only a few sections of walls still visible. Around 1128, Alfonso I “The Battler” constructed a new enclosure. The current wall dates to the late 12th or early 13th century and consists of two walls built with ashlars and filled with stone and lime mortar, giving the structure significant robustness, with a thickness of nearly 2.5 meters. In the 19th century, during the War of Independence, the wall was partially demolished. Of the four original gates—Puerta del Mercado, Puerta de Herreros, Puerta de la Villa, and Puerta de Berlanga—the first three are preserved. There were also three postern gates, of which San Miguel and Santa María remain.

CÚPULA IGLESIA DE SAN MIGUEL DE ALMAZÁN

Descripción:

The Romanesque church of San Miguel de Almazán is a 12th-century construction declared a National Monument in 1931 for its artistic originality. This temple is of exceptional interest due to the peculiarities of its architectural forms. Its complex floor plan features three naves with a skewed apse, culminating in the vaulting of the transept. The transept showcases a rare ribbed dome of Muslim influence, with paired ribs forming an octagon at the base of the lantern and drawing an eight-pointed star. Other unique features include Oriental, Mudéjar, Lombard, and Cistercian influences, as well as the magnificent 12th-century altar frontal, which depicts the murder of Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1170.

PEÑALCÁZAR

Descripción:

Today, only approximately one hundred meters of the western wall remain, along with remnants of the alcázar, access gates, and various isolated sections, with some battlements in acceptable condition for the overall structure.

Historia:

Peñalcázar was a Celtiberian city later known as Centóbriga or Celtíbriga (high fortress) during Roman times. Subsequently, the settlement became part of the territories ruled by the Hispano-Muslims (9th–10th centuries). Following the incursions of El Cid in the region and the Christian conquest of the nearby town of Alcocer (12th century), the inhabitants opted to pay tributes to shield themselves from internal conflicts between the taifa kingdoms and Christian attacks. The Christian conquest of Al-qasr occurred in the year 974.

CARABANTES

Descripción:

Among its attractions is its peculiar architecture. The ruins of the Tobajas Castle on the way to La Quiñonería and the proximity to Peñalcázar enhance its historical and artistic interest. Carabantes was the birthplace of the Venerable Father Carabantes, a distinguished missionary of the 17th century.

DEZA

Descripción:

In addition to prehistoric and Visigothic occupation (necropolis), Deza gained significant prominence during the Islamic period, when its name repeatedly appears in historical sources as a border fortress. The first reference is from 876, when Alfonso III the Great attacked it during an expedition. This border city would have had a wall and a citadel. In 974, Count García Fernández attacked the Campo de Gómara, reaching Deza. In 1190, the town belonged to Don Munio de Finojosa and received the Soria charter from Alfonso VIII. Between 1296 and 1305, it was held by the Infantes of the House of la Cerda. Between the 13th and 15th centuries, the town was a frontier between Aragón and Castilla and suffered various attacks, being the headquarters of Peter the Cruel and handed over to Bertrand du Guesclin shortly thereafter. In 1429, it was attacked and burned by the Aragonese, returning to Castilla in 1437.

CASTILLO DE CIRIA

Descripción:

10th-century Andalusian castle built on top of an earlier, smaller Muslim structure. It is an example of a fortress adapted to its surroundings. Situated at the top of a rock, both the layout and the irregular height of its walls perfectly fit the rugged terrain. On its western side, there is a drop of about fifty meters, serving as a natural defense. The wall is in fairly good condition, still retaining more than thirty battlements. Built with masonry, its strategic location allows it to control the natural pass of the Manubles River, which leads to the lands of Almenar and Borobia. It’s worth observing the vultures flying over it and taking a walk through the village toward the lands of Moncayo.

BORDECOREX

Descripción:

The village of Bordecorex, with architecture anchored in time, lies at the foot of the steep Cerro Lutero, along the banks of the river Torete, also known as Bordecorex. One of the prominent elements of the town is the tower that rises at the foot of the church. According to experts, this tower would belong to an ancient defensive enclosure from the Andalusian period, which was repurposed as the bell tower for the church. The tower collapsed in 2008 but was quickly rebuilt.

TORREÓN DE ALDEALPOZO

Descripción:

The tower dates back to the 10th century and bears similarities to those of La Pica and Noviercas, among others. It is a slender tower of Berber origin, standing 18 meters tall with dimensions of 9.40 x 7.50 meters and walls 1.75 meters thick on the first floor. The tower consists of three wooden floors, where the marks of the beams are still visible. The access door is located on the first floor, hidden by a passageway that connects the tower with the late Romanesque Church of San Juan Bautista (12th century). Additionally, the facades are dotted with openings, arrow slits, or very flared loopholes that are visible throughout the wall. On the north and east facades, openings were later made for the bells, and the tower was truncated and covered with a roof.

TORREÓN DE HINOJOSA DEL CAMPO

Descripción:

The oldest tower is the Andalusian one, dating from the 10th century. It is small in size and retains one of the original windows on the south side; the rest was modified in the 12th century by the Christians. The entrance is not visible on the first floor, nor is its interior, which was altered with the addition of bells. The Christian tower stands out for its great height, being flat on the side of the church nave and semicircular on the rest. It is possible to access the upper part, where the bells are located. As for the body of the church itself, a semicircular arch connects the nave with the apse. Inside, the former main chapel is covered by a barrel vault in the apse and a pointed barrel vault in the straight section. It communicates with the nave through a pointed and double triumphal arch supported by two columns with capitals, the one on the right featuring vegetal motifs and the one on the left showing ten figures in different postures. It also has a baptismal font in the shape of a truncated cone, decorated with a quarter of a bead at the opening, a series of semicircular arches resting on paired columns, with birds and serpents depicted in the spandrels.

TORREÓN DE LA PICA

Descripción:

The tower was built with rammed earth and masonry, featuring a rectangular floor plan, approximately 14 meters in height, with access at the first floor level. The most striking feature is the configuration and decoration of the entrance door, which is clearly of a later construction, with an arch resting on voussoirs and a carved castle with three towers and a door on the lintel. The structure of the access passage is typical: a barrel vault supported by voussoirs, where the marks of the door hinges on both sides and the holes for the bar are still visible. The reduced dimensions of the interior compared to the width of the tower are also noteworthy, due to walls that are nearly two meters thick at the base, which can currently be accessed through a false opening. The basement (at ground level) and two upper floors feature rough barrel vaults, most likely added later. In the basement walls, hexagonal-sectioned holes radiate from the center of the tower’s floor plan, which are the marks left by the needles or tensioners of the wooden panels used to build the rammed earth, similar to the method currently used for concrete formwork. The tower has several small, deeply set windows.

Historia:

It is known that in the 11th century, during the time of General Gálib, Count Garci Fernández, breaking the truce that was being negotiated in Córdoba and taking advantage of the absence of the Andalusian general in the area, initiated an expedition with the troops of the Infantes de Lara against the towers of the Rituerto Valley and Gómara, Canales (Aldealpozo), La Pica, Masegoso, and Torre de Amril (Torambil).

TORREÓN DE MASEGOSO

Descripción:

The Torreón de Masegoso, 18 meters in height, has a rectangular floor plan and a truncated pyramid silhouette. It is built with alternating layers of rubble masonry and mortar with slabs to improve its stability. The walls were raised with the help of wooden scaffolding anchored to the wall using almojayas. The base is solid with a pronounced slope up to nearly 3 meters. Above this height, the corners are rounded to hinder any mining attempts. Inside, the four floors and the terrace are marked by setbacks where the beams for the roofs (now gone) were supported. Communication between the floors and with the outside was done using ladders. The ground floor, entirely closed, was used as a storehouse or makeshift dungeon. On the first floor, which served as a guardroom for a small garrison, the entrance door opens to the southeast, consisting of a pointed arch in ashlar masonry. The opening is reinforced with a barrel vault, also made of ashlar. On the second floor, a loophole oriented to the west provides ventilation and light. The terrace, from where surveillance and communication would have taken place, retains no remains of its battlements.

Historia:

The legend of the ghost of Masegoso is one of the most talked about in the area. A dramatized version of it, performed by the local residents, takes place in August and attracts a large audience. The story revolves around themes of love and jealousy, revenge, and collective poisonings, forming the core of this myth.

TORREÓN DE TRÉVAGO

Descripción:

With a square base and 16 meters in height, it has three floors supported by wooden beams embedded in grooves, without arches, and covered with Arabic tiles. The tower is part of a complex in its surroundings, connected and united for defense. It now forms part of the parish church of the locality.

Historia:

We are facing a building constructed by Abderramán III, a defensive tower, one of many built by this strategist who anticipated attacks from Christian rulers by constructing numerous fortresses, castles, and watchtowers. A caliph who built and repaired numerous buildings for defensive purposes. Among his last constructions are the Torreón de Trévago and others with similar characteristics, of Berber craftsmanship, built in the first half of the 9th century. When the Berbers arrived in the Iberian Peninsula, they were already Islamized, but this did not stop them from incorporating their identifying features into the constructions.

ATALAYA DE LA VERUELA

Descripción:

The Veruela watchtower is located in the municipality of Caltojar, in the Berlanga region, in the province of Soria. It can be reached via the regional road that leads to Bordecorex; about 2 kilometers along, there is a poorly maintained path to the left. About 200 meters from some livestock pens, the tower can be found. It is a tower 9 meters high, with a circular floor plan and thick walls, divided into three floors: the lower floor has no openings, and the door is on the second floor. It features a unique starting point of a wall on its northern side, integrated into the rest of the structure.

Historia:

It is a 10th-century Muslim watchtower, one of many built in these borderlands, with notable examples still remaining.

ATALAYA EL TIÑÓN

Historia:

Legend has it that this watchtower served as the deathbed of the Andalusian leader Almanzor, when he was retreating badly wounded towards his quarters in Medinaceli after being defeated in the Battle of Calatañazor. In the valley of the Torete River, there is a significant concentration of watchtowers or atalayas, which would have been part of a Muslim defensive route linking Medinaceli with Gormaz in the 10th century, a witness to multiple Muslim raids or Christian attacks during the campaigns of both sides.

ATALAYA QUINTANILLA DE LOS TRES BARRIOS

Descripción:

This is a cylindrical tower with a diameter of 4.8 meters, a height of 10 meters, and walls that are 1 meter thick. The entrance is located 2.5 meters above the ground, accessible by a staircase. The tower is divided into three distinct floors, and from the top, visitors can enjoy unparalleled views. The sights include the Duero River, Quintanilla, San Esteban de Gormaz, and the watchtowers of Osma as well as the Castle of Gormaz, all offering a glimpse into the past.

CASTILLO DE BAENA

Descripción:

The castle was originally surrounded by a rectangular area measuring approximately 60 meters long by 37 meters wide, enclosed by walls of varying periods and materials, most of which were in very poor condition due to abandonment since the 19th century and a series of 20th-century constructions. These included a Civil War bunker, water storage tanks in the parade ground, and an exterior parking lot on the western side.

The fortress was designed in the form of a quadrilateral, with powerful towers at each corner. To the southwest stood the Torre de las Arqueras, the former keep tower, which had completely disappeared by the early 20th century. This was the largest tower of the castle, and there are both graphic and written records of its existence.

On the western side of the fortress, there is an intermediate tower between the Torre de las Arqueras and the northwest tower, beside which a new access was made in the 16th century, called the Puerta de Palacio, well-documented in historical sources. The northwest tower defends one of the corners of the fortress. Originally built with rammed earth (tapial), it was significantly deteriorated but later reinforced and expanded in masonry during the Christian period, greatly increasing its surface area.

The tower defending the northeast corner was originally built in masonry with a tapial topping, possibly from the Almohad period or earlier, which was later covered with a masonry structure. An intermediate tower also exists along the northern wall.

On the eastern side, the Torre de los Cascabeles stood, though it was partially destroyed due to the construction of one of the water storage tanks. Next to it was the Puerta del Campo, one of the main accesses to the fortress. This entrance was flanked by the Torre de los Cascabeles and a smaller tower located further south.

Finally, in the southeastern corner, the Torre de los Secretos stood, defending both the entrance to the Almedina (which has since disappeared) and the tower on the southern wall, which housed the Puerta de la Liza, discovered during excavations.

Historia:

The first records of the castle date back to the 9th century, specifically the year 890, when the rebel of the Emirate of Córdoba, Omar Ibn Hafsún, arrived in Baena. The castle played a significant role during the Late Middle Ages, as it was located on the frontier between the Kingdom of Granada and the Kingdom of Castile. During the Modern Age, the castle transitioned into a residence for the lords of Baena, who largely disguised its defensive characteristics in order to adapt it into a living space.

CASTILLO DE TORREPAREDONES

Descripción:

The Torre del Homenaje has rounded corners, which enhances its structural strength. It is set on a foundation made of ashlars and consists of two superimposed spaces, both covered with vaults. On its eastern face, traces of openings or arrow slits are visible, and from this side, the wall surrounding the auxiliary enclosure begins.

To the northeast of the tower, parts of the eastern and western sides remain, though the rest has collapsed down the northern slope of the castle. The access structure to the castle is located on the eastern wall. It consists of a passage around 5 meters long and 2 meters wide, with a drainage channel running beneath it. The passage is flanked by two small towers, which are connected at the level of the ramparts. Part of an Ibero-Roman column shaft and the mortises of a double-leaf door are preserved within this passage. Adjacent to the western wall, an excavation in 2013 uncovered the base of a staircase, likely an access to the rampart.

The castle also features a series of service rooms, such as kitchens and stables, arranged along the various walls and leaving an open central area occupied by the patio de armas (arms courtyard). In the patio, a rectangular cistern (3.20 x 2.35 meters) is preserved, covered with a barrel vault. The cistern reaches a height of 2.85 meters to the crown of the vault, and 2.35 meters up to the maximum water level. Remnants of hydraulic mortar and red ochre plaster are still visible inside. In 1833, an important funerary assemblage was discovered within the cistern, consisting of twelve limestone urns with inscriptions that, according to Ramírez de Arellano, suggest the deceased belonged to the family of the Pompey.

Given the abundance of stone from the ancient Iberian fortifications—possibly with up to three lines of walls—the construction of this medieval castle likely occurred quickly. In 2013, consolidation projects were initiated to preserve its walls and to rehabilitate the Torre del Homenaje. That same year, an archaeological campaign was conducted in the castle’s exterior precinct, located to the east. These excavations revealed that this area served as a service zone for the castle, where a bread oven and a mill were found.

Historia:

During the medieval period, the Córdoba countryside was a key territory on the border between the Kingdom of Castile and the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada. In 1236, Córdoba was conquered by Fernando III, a milestone that led to a process of strengthening the Castilian presence in the countryside and Subbética, through the construction of new castles and the reinforcement of Andalusian military structures. At that time, the area around Torreparedones was well known to the Castilians, who referred to it as Castro el Viejo (the Old Fort).

Studies conducted on the Torreparedones archaeological site suggest that this location has been inhabited from the 2nd millennium BC until the 16th century, reaching its peak during the Iberian and Roman periods. The Cerro de las Vírgenes is an extensive site known for its rich stratigraphic sequence. This area was continuously inhabited from the 2nd millennium BC and experienced its greatest prominence during the Iberian and Roman times.

During the medieval period, the site was occupied under the Caliphate, Almohad, and Almoravid periods. Some scholars believe that the medieval castle was constructed after the Christian conquest of Castro del Río in 1232. According to Sánchez de Feria, Fernando III donated this castle and its surrounding village to the adelantado (regional leader) and mayor of Córdoba, Don Pedro Ruiz de Castro, later transferring it to the city of Córdoba. The castle came under the ownership of King Alfonso X, who donated it in 1269 to Fernán Alfonso de Lastres, Lord of the Asturian territory of Lastres and mayor of Baena, in recognition of his services during the conquest of Andalusia. Subsequently, his son, Gonzalo Alfonso de Lastres, known as “the Captive,” sold it in 1296 to Pay Arias de Castro, the mayor of Córdoba and lord of Espejo, for his own release.

In 1328, King Alfonso XI, at the request of the Córdoba council, ordered that Fernán Alfonso, the mayor of Córdoba, become the governor of Castro el Viejo, placing it under Córdoba’s jurisdiction. This was later confirmed in a ruling by Gómez Fernández de Soria in 1352, which declared Castro el Viejo to be a castle of Córdoba, stating that “the said land and its territory should be considered the property of the people of the said town of Castro el Viejo.” After this, its jurisdiction was in constant dispute, despite King Henry III’s decree in 1406 to return it to the heirs of Pay Arias de Castro, a requirement that was not fulfilled. In 1469, Henry IV granted the fortress to the Count of Cabra, Diego Fernández de Córdoba, for his support in the civil war with Prince Sancho. However, it returned to the hands of the Córdoba council two years later. From that point on, the council continued to appoint governors until the early 16th century.

With the division of property into thirds, there were numerous changes in ownership and leases that led to a progressive depopulation of the village, which remained under the ownership of the city of Córdoba until the 19th century.

ARCO DE CONSOLACIÓN

Descripción:

The Arco de Consolación is one of the access gates to the original Almedina of Baena. It is located on the southern wall, embedded within a tower that protrudes from the line of the surrounding wall.

Typologically, this gate follows the defensive approach typical of the Almohad period, featuring a zig-zag interior layout to enhance control over access.

The tower is almost square, but its corners are rounded, giving it a curved shape. This, combined with the lack of external openings except for the doorframe, imparts a sense of strength and fortification to the tower. The external access arch is semi-circular, while the interior arch is lance-shaped. The roof is flat.

The tower is constructed with rubble masonry arranged in relatively uniform layers, with mortar filling the joints. Over time, it has been restored several times.

TORREÓN DEL ARCO OSCURO

Descripción:

The tower has two levels and a four-pitched roof. It is constructed with masonry on the ground floor and box masonry with brick courses on the upper floor. The brickwork finishes the corners and the inner access arch. Currently, the interior passage and part of the exterior masonry are plastered, sometimes covering the masonry boxes or entire wall sections of the tower.

Access from the outside of the wall occurs through an opening in the southern wall of the tower. This passage leads to an opening in the eastern wall of the tower. Both arches are semicircular. The interior passage is covered by barrel vaults. The side where the arch for the entrance to the town opens has been thickened with a brick wall. The southern wall features a window on the upper level and an arch at the southeastern corner, which may have been part of a passage from the parapet of the wall.

The upper floor was added in the 17th century and was likely built over a destroyed level of the earlier Andalusian construction. This upper floor has an access point from the street along the northern wall, a modification made to accommodate the municipal council. The tower has undergone multiple renovations over the years.

There is no reliable data about the construction date of the walled enclosure of the Almedina, to which the Torreón del Arco Oscuro belongs. However, some features, such as the zigzag entrances, clearly indicate an Almohad influence in its design.

Historia:

There is no reliable data on the construction date of the walled enclosure of the Almedina, to which the Torreón del Arco Oscuro belongs. However, some elements, such as the zigzag entrances characteristic of this tower, show a clear Almohad influence in their design.

The settlement of the Almoravids and Almohads in Baena dates back to the 8th century, following the fall of the Caliphate. Prior to this, and following the victory of Emir Abd Allah over Ibn Hafsún, Baena was the capital of the cora (an Andalusian administrative region, equivalent to a province), specifically the cora of Cabra, experiencing significant growth.

The fortress of Baena was handed over to Ferdinand III between 1239 and 1240. During the Christian period, the tower underwent various modifications and became the seat of the municipal council.

CASTILLO DE CASTRO DEL RÍO

Descripción:

The castle is located at the highest point of the town, in the eastern zone, connected to the walls and defending the only gate of the fortification: the Martos Gate, from the Muslim period. Today, the castle retains the Parade Ground, the Keep (Torre del Homenaje), some dungeons, and the cisterns. The current fortress, which dates from after the Christian conquest and is quite deteriorated due to time and several reconstructions, still retains much of its original structure.

It consists of a rectangular parade ground measuring 25 x 20 meters, with four corner towers and four wall sections that connect them. The only entrance is an archway with a semicircular arch, well-crafted with voussoirs and ashlar stones. Adjacent to the gate is the main tower, the Keep, which is solid and made of rammed earth. Much of its surfaces are covered with brickwork, and at the top of its corners, remnants of corbels suggest that watchtowers may have been supported here. The upper chamber of the Keep is vaulted and has an opening at the top.

The northwest tower is also built of mortar and is solid, but it has an irregular-shaped room excavated at ground level, about two meters high. The remaining towers are more significant. The northeast tower consists of a large hexagonal chamber covered by a ribbed vault with an opening at the top. Access to this room is through a small doorway with a pointed arch from the Parade Ground. In the center of this room is a large cistern. Externally, the tower is round and covered with mortar. The remaining tower also features a lower chamber open on all four sides. Inside, a staircase leads to the only parapet, which sits atop the front wall and has been rebuilt and repurposed as a pigeon loft.

MURALLA URBANA DE CASTRO DEL RÍO

Historia:

The walls border the current town center, the ancient village, located on the summit of a hill on the banks of the Guadajoz River. Part of the enclosure has disappeared, but a large portion of the wall sections and towers remain, which allows us to understand its layout. The walled enclosure has an irregular shape, adapting to the configuration of the land. On the eastern side stands the castle, and next to it, the Martos Gate, the main access point to the Muslim-era enclosure, where small side gates were later added.

The wall sections are made of masonry at the lower part and rammed earth in the upper part, with some areas showing brick reinforcement. The corners are reinforced with brickwork. The towers that line the wall are square and built in the same manner as the wall sections, with the corners made of ashlar stones. Over the centuries, the perimeter has expanded, starting from the highest defensible point, and now presents attached houses all along its perimeter.

MEDINA DE BAENA

Descripción:

The toponym Baena comes from the Arabic Bayyana, which is a transcription of the name of one of the many Roman villas that continued to exist into the Visigothic period and was chosen as a settlement by the Berbers in the 8th century, who fortified it. Bayyana appears in historical sources during the Emirate period, in connection with the Muladi rebellion of Omar ibn Hafsún, who attempted to conquer it in 890. In a text by Ibn Hayyan, from Muqtabis III, cited by Acién Almansa (1997), it is narrated that, despite an unsuccessful attack, after negotiating with the local population, Ibn Hafsún attacked the hisn (Islamic castle) of Bayyana. In 891, Emir Abd Allah defeated Omar ibn Hafsún and established a cavalry force in the citadel to control the Guadajoz river valley, a natural passage from Priego de Córdoba to Córdoba. At this time, the capital of the cora shifted from Cabra to Baena, as reflected in the anonymous chronicle of Abd al-Rahman III.

During the Caliphate period, Baena experienced significant growth, which was interrupted after the fall of the Caliphate, as it was looted by the Berber peoples. Both the Almohads and Almoravids passed through Baena, exerting strong influence on the city.

TORRE DEL SOL

Descripción:

At the end of 2017, the second phase of the four sondages was concluded to determine the layout and architectural characteristics of a second walled enclosure that would run around the first fortified ring of the Almedina of Bayyana, connecting to it at the location of the so-called Torre del Sol. The sondages confirmed that these are remains of a stretch of a second wall, with a height of over 4 meters and a thickness of 1.2 meters in the excavated area.

Historia:

Various late medieval objects have been found, including an enamelled bronze pendant, coins, whistles from the period, and a complete glass ring. All evidence suggests that this second walled enclosure may have been built during the 13th or 14th centuries to contain an outer settlement area and address the issues of occupation on this steep slope. It was intensively occupied between the 13th and 17th centuries.

TAUJEL DEL CONVENTO MADRE DE DIOS

Descripción:

The design of the “perforated framework” is complex, as the templates for cutting the structural elements must be exact and precise. This system of placing the different elements onto boards, which are later suspended from a supporting element, originated in the Nasrid kingdom. Currently, this work is purely decorative, as it is created entirely independent of the necessary roofing, not supporting the weight of the roof but sustaining its own weight.

Historia:

The taujel is included within the so-called Mudejar Art, a truly Hispanic art (Hispanic because some remnants can also be found in South America). That is to say, it is a Muslim art created for buildings that were generally Christian (though some were Jewish, like the synagogue). It is important to note that this is an anonymous art form, as it developed through guilds of carpenters and was transmitted from masters to disciples, with the collective — rather than the individual craftsman — being the key to the creation of the work.

IGLESIA DE SANTA MARÍA LA MAYOR

Descripción:

The main body of the church began construction in the mid-15th century and continued into the first decades of the 16th century. The three naves of the temple are separated by molded ogival arches supported by typical Gothic pillars. At the head of the church, there are three apsidal chapels with a square plan. After the earthquake of 1681, when the vaults were rebuilt, the pillars of the side naves were cut at the level of the vaults’ spring points; large corbels were placed on them in the 18th century. To the old walls, made with ashlar, masonry, or solid bricks, new enclosures were added where the choir and the chapels, demolished later, had once been. These new enclosures incorporated hollow bricks and concrete blocks. The naves are covered with small brick vaults supported by a visible metal structure of trusses and beams. The central nave is covered with a gabled roof, while the side naves have single-pitched roofs.

There are two main access doors to the church: the Puerta del Ángel, which opens to the fourth section of the nave of the Gospel, and the Puerta del Perdón, which connects to the third section of the Epistle nave through a large atrium. Attached to the nave of the Gospel, at the level of the third section, is the tower, the first body of which is believed to be the minaret of the previous mosque. Its plan is almost square, as is the plan of the stairwell shaft.

Historia:

In the city of Baena, there existed a major mosque founded by Abd al-Rahman II. After the Christian conquest of the city in 1240, this mosque was likely consecrated as a church. The first record of this church of Santa María la Mayor dates back to 1280. In the late 15th century, the third Count of Cabra built the main chapel and rebuilt the vaults of the chapels on the Epistle side in 1525. It was during the second half of the 15th century and the early 16th century that the main body of the church was constructed. After an earthquake in 1681, the main vaults were demolished and rebuilt without their original ogival design. From 1770 to 1771, the renovations referenced in the inscription on the Puerta del Ángel took place, a restoration carried out by the master builder Pedro Ramos.

ALQUERÍAS DE CORTIJO DEL ÁNGEL, CERRO DEL ALCAPARRAL, FINCA DE GARATIS Y EL CALVARIO

Descripción:

The term “alquería” in al-Andalus referred to small rural communities of a few houses, located near cities and made up of one or more families, who worked the surrounding lands and engaged in agricultural and livestock activities. In a way, it represents the continuation of the Roman villa. These settlements were typically created during times of social peace, as they generally did not have their own defenses, although they often included a tower that served as a granary and refuge. After the Christian conquest, the term continued to be used to describe this type of settlement, and it wasn’t until the 15th century that it began to acquire its current meaning of a farmhouse.

TORRE DEL PUERTO

Descripción:

The construction of this watchtower is made with large limestone blocks that are barely worked and vary in size, ranging around 1×0.60×0.40 meters, along with small rubble or stone slabs used as wedges for the larger blocks. The masonry, as far as it can be observed, is made of what seems to be pseudo-isodomous courses, linked together by a cement-like mortar of considerable hardness, which in some areas gives the impression that the wall is not made of independent units but rather a single block. The wall thickness is 1.50 meters, enclosing an interior space of 4.70 meters in diameter, while the exterior measures 11 meters.

This tower presents very similar characteristics to the Torre Alta and the Torre del Morchón, both located in the Priego area, in terms of dimensions. They can be classified as the larger cylindrical and truncated-conical towers and, moreover, are hollow from their base. Regarding the nature of its construction and the structure of its masonry, while keeping in mind the few remains that have survived, it can be noted that they are very similar to these two other towers. The ceramics found at the site are very scarce, with some fragments of terra sigillata, others that are atypical, and very few glazed pieces in amber tones scattered across the surrounding agricultural land. Approximately 500 meters away, an old road surrounds the tower, with some sections showing possible remains of a paved path.

Historia:

The tower is mentioned in various historical accounts. In the mid-19th century, the writer Luis María Ramírez de las Casas-Deza stated, “Similarly, to the west of this town [of Baena], the Torre del Puerto is located, a building almost in ruins on its high hill where the boundaries of Baena and Montilla meet. It is of Arab construction, and there are remains of buildings and Roman and Arab coins found there.”

TORRE DE LOS SANTOS

Descripción:

The reason why the hypothesis persists that this body of the building could be the ancient tower, although somewhat masked by successive reforms introduced over the years, is based on the fact that regular and somewhat carved stone ashlars, alternated with layers of stone slabs and bricks, can still be seen in the corners, foundations, and lower areas of its walls. This is the same construction technique used in the Towers of the Plata, Torre Morana, or Torre de Barcas, and is also combined with the same tower shape in these cases, that is, the prismatic form.

Another reason put forward to support this identity is that, in the previously quoted passage from Valverde and Perales, it is stated that the aforementioned tower was later used as a chapel, and today, the interior of the building’s ground floor is a small abandoned chapel, approximately 4 x 6 meters and about 4 meters high, with a barrel vault of Baroque workmanship, decorated and coated with frescoes. These frescoes are predominantly red in tone, poorly preserved due to humidity, neglect, and time, and have been dated to the first half of the 16th century.

Regarding the antiquity of the site, it can be traced back at least to the Final Bronze Age, as indicated by the ceramics, although the most numerous finds correspond to the Romanization period, especially the sigillata pottery. There are also glazed ceramics that are difficult to date chronologically.

Historia:

Based on the Andalusian historian of Valencian origin Ibn al-Abbar al-Qudai, who dealt with the Andalusian kings of Granada, F. Valverde y Perales states in his History of the Town of Baena that “in the year 1242, the Christians won against Caachena, a place whose location we do not know…,” although this author suggests that it could have been located on Monte Horquera, not far from the Carchena stream.

Nueva Carteya

Descripción:

In 1500, a resident of Castro del Río, Pedro Ruiz de Cañete, rented a garden located on the Guadajoz riverbank next to the neighborhood of La Corredera, along with the waterwheel building that belonged to him, to the carder Alonso García, also from Castro del Río.

Also in 1500, Alonso González de Jerez, a resident of Baena from the Santa María district and steward of Fernanda Carrillo, hired the Castilian carpenter Juan García to build a “flight” waterwheel to irrigate a garden located next to the Guadajoz river. In March of the same year, three residents of Castro del Río made an agreement with the town’s carpenter, Pedro Sánchez, for the construction of another “flight” waterwheel with a “grinding and flowing” system, which was to be placed in the port and channel with a sturdy wooden structure, to be completed in one month under the supervision of masters.

Waterwheels were one of the most common hydraulic devices in Al-Andalus. In fact, the name “noria” is a derivation from the Arabic term “na’aura.”

NORIA DE ALBENDÍN

Descripción:

The Albendín waterwheel is located on the western bank (left bank) of the Guadajoz River, on the outskirts (southeast) of the town of Albendín. It appears in an urban setting, framed by sports facilities and a garden area located next to the riverbank. On the opposite bank of the river, across from the dam that feeds water to the waterwheel, there is a riverside grove that leads into a cereal cultivation area. The water intake channel for the waterwheel features a straight and sloped upper part, with dimensions of 37 x 4.20 meters, built with masonry and concrete. It belongs to the typical pile type, as can be seen in its northeastern part, where the wear caused by the current has exposed some of the stakes forming its structure. The structure clearly shows two construction phases, as the core of stakes and masonry is covered with a layer of cement.

At its western end, there is the drainage canal, 70 cm wide and about 2 meters long, which is closed at the top by a gate or “aguatocho” made of an iron plate held by a screw.

The waterwheel is housed in a masonry building approximately 14 meters long by 4 meters wide. This building contains the water channel that moves the wheel, the wheel itself, the “añaquil” (water catchment device for the water discharged by the buckets), and the aqueduct that supports the small channel through which water flowed to irrigate the gardens. The lower part of this building is open on its southern end, where water flows into the wheel channel. The entrance to the channel is marked by a metal grate that filters out river debris and by a gate or “aguatocho” made of iron and wood, which regulates the water flow entering the channel.

TESORILLO DE DIRHAMES DE IZCAR

Descripción:

The coins correspond, therefore, to the reigns of ‘Abd al-Rahman I (1 piece), al-Hakam I (8 pieces), ‘Abd al-Rahman II, and Muhammad I, with the latter emir’s coins being the most numerous. Notably, the piece from the year 162/778-9 stands out, as it is a very early date, considering that the next registered year is 190/805-6, and no example from the reign of I (172-180/788-796) is found. However, this is not the first time such an occurrence has been observed in Emirate finds. It is also noteworthy that five of these pieces are holed: two of them (nos. 20 and 15) with one and two circular perforations, respectively; and the remaining three (nos. 12, 13, and 35) with a slot in the central part, with no. 12 preserving the silver piece that, embedded in the slot, would have served as a support. It should be noted that both the perforations and slots are made from the obverse to the reverse.

Historia:

Considering that the last year represented in the hoard is 272/885–6, the final year of Muhammad I’s reign, it is assumed that the hoarding took place in this same year due to the presence of the rebel Omar Ibn Hafsūn in the area. Indeed, upon Muhammad I’s death, his son and heir, who was facing Ibn Hafsūn, had to rush back to Córdoba to take charge of the emirate. The cessation of hostilities allowed Ibn Hafsūn to consolidate his power and expand his conquests over the territories of Beja, Jaén, Cabra, and other cities in the region. As Arab sources indicate, Baena, which already had considerable importance during this period, remained loyal to the Emirate throughout the conflict. However, it was not spared from being taken by Ibn Hafsūn shortly after, in 276/889–90, during the reign of Emir Abd Allah (successor to al-Mundir). After fighting, the city was forced to negotiate its surrender, but the rebel Ibn Hafsūn did not respect the terms of the agreement, looted the city, and killed or captured its inhabitants. Years later, in 298/910–11, Baena reappears in the Arab sources as the base for the emir’s cavalry in its confrontation with Ibn Hafsūn. The great prosperity that Baena enjoyed during the Umayyad period explains the numerous and continuous numismatic discoveries that have occurred and continue to occur in the area.

DIRHAMES DEL EMIRATO DEPENDIENTE

Descripción:

The find consists of 351 pieces (including whole or fragmented coins that provide information, such as mint and date, and fragments without notable information), from which information can be extracted from 217. There are 25 mints present in the collection. The dates span an interval of 58 years, from 79 to 136 H, corresponding to the years 698 to 753 in our calendar.

TUMBAS ANDALUSÍES DE TORREPAREDONES

Descripción:

This Muslim burial is situated during the civil war period (or fitna, between the years 1009 and 1031), which led to the collapse of the Caliphate of Córdoba and the emergence of the Taifas. This suggests that during the 11th century, the site of Torreparedones was still inhabited, although we do not know what it was called at that time.

The Andalusian graves have been documented in sector 1, which includes the access road to the visitor reception center, the parking area in the same sector, and the visitor center up to the entrance of the archaeological park.

CASTILLO DE PAY ARIAS

Descripción:

It is likely that the Keep Tower followed the typology of a square plan covered by a vault on pendentives, typical of Mudejar aesthetics. However, today, after various extensive renovations, quoting Ramírez de Arellano, “its builders would not recognize it if they saw it.

IGLESIA PARROQUIAL DE SANTA MARÍA

Descripción:

This conjunction of styles – we would be talking about a building that would preserve Almohad elements from a previous mosque alongside those of distinctly Christian construction – is explained because Mudejar art was conceived as part of Western Christian art, adding to and integrating with the Romanesque and Gothic styles. The original layout of the parish church in relation to the possible preceding mosque is unknown, but we do have a pointed horseshoe arch framed by an alfiz with Almohad aesthetics on the wall of the nave of the Gospel. This may stand as a testimony of this moment, whether we are dealing with an “in situ” vestige or a reused arch relocated for this new position. Later styles would contribute to camouflage these forms, especially from the 18th century onwards, using Baroque elements in the vaults of the naves and the presbytery, as well as in the Sagrario, which was newly constructed.

DIRHEM CUADRADO

Descripción:

The piece evidences the settlement that existed at that time in the Torreparedones site prior to the Christian conquest, which would take place in the second half of the 13th century. Notable is a set of 10 Andalusian coins, one of which is a square silver piece, corresponding to half a Almohad dirham, while the other 9 are copper feduses minted during the Independent Emirate, which can be considered emissions from Abd al-Rahman II.

TESORILLO CALIFAL DE FUENTIDUEÑA

Descripción:

The small treasure was discovered in 1924, and its 204 dirhams were distributed across several collections. One of them ended up in the Museum of Cañete de las Torres (Córdoba), as published in the II Jarique of Numismatics, while the rest is preserved in a private collection.

Historia:

The historical events that may have led to the hiding of the small treasure began after the death of the Andalusian leader al-Mansur (Almanzor) in the fields of Medinaceli. Hixam II granted the same governing privileges to Abd al-Malik, the son of al-Mansur, living a period of prosperity and peace until the breakdown of the caliphate during the reign of his brother.

QĀSIM B. AṢBAG

Descripción:

He began his studies in Córdoba as a student of the jurist Baqī b. Majlad, al-Jušanī, the Mālikī legal scholar Muḥammad b. Abd al-Waḍḍāḥ, and Abd Allāh b. Masarra, among others. During his study trip to the East, he visited Mecca, Kufa, Baghdad, Egypt, Qayrawan, and other cities, where he had the opportunity to acquire knowledge in ḥadīṯ (sayings of the Prophet), Qur’anic sciences, poetry, and history from renowned masters. His education was excellent, as once he returned to al-Andalus, he became a reference point for the study of these sciences and is considered the introducer of the historical works of Aḥmad b. Zuhayr b. Ḥarb and the works of the polymath Ibn Qutayba, of whom he had been an outstanding disciple in Baghdad.

Among his disciples, once settled in Córdoba, were the future Abd al-Raḥmān III and later his sons, as well as traditionists who took his lessons and transmitted his teachings. He stood out in the field of oral tradition, being an expert in prophetic traditions, grammar, and rare terms (garīb), as well as poetry. He was also frequently consulted on legal matters due to his extensive knowledge. He had a significant influence at the Cordoban court, not only as a teacher to future caliphs but also because his family had among its ancestors a freedman from the caliphs of the East, which made them clients of the Umayyad dynasty. According to sources, he died at the age of 92 on the 14th of ŷumādà I, in the year 340/18 October 951, in Córdoba.

Historia:

Among his works, several books stand out, dedicated to praising the Umayyads and the Qurayš tribe, another on genealogies, at least three collections of traditions, a book on garā’ib — rare terms — and his main contribution in the field of history, with a work mentioned by Casiri as Hispaniae Laudibus, which has not been preserved, as well as the translation of the History of Orosius, attributed to him by Ibn Khaldūn, with the collaboration of Walīd b. Jayruzan, a judge of the Christians.

LEYENDAS DE VALVERDE Y PERALES

Descripción:

In addition to the Legends, the book contains a section with historical references to give credibility to the events narrated. In the case at hand, we have made a selection of those that take place in Baena and nearby areas, excluding those that occur in other towns.

Historia:

The four legends mentioned are titled: The Virgin of Consolation, The Imprisonment of Boabdil, A Betrayal and a Challenge, and Mohamad.

LEYENDAS DE VALVERDE Y PERALES

Descripción:

In addition to the Legends, the book contains a section with historical references to give credibility to the events narrated. In the case at hand, we have made a selection of those that take place in Baena and nearby areas, excluding those that occur in other towns.

Historia:

The four legends mentioned are titled: The Virgin of Consolation, The Imprisonment of Boabdil, A Betrayal and a Challenge, and Mohamad.

CERVANTES, EL QUIJOTE Y CASTRO DEL RÍO

Descripción:

The article in Chapter XXXI referenced in the journal Alqantara, vol. 19, 2, presents a piece written by Mahmüd *A. MAKKI, where he cites La Cabecera de la Mesa as an Andalusian reference. This is connected to Floresta de anécdotas y relatos curiosos by the Malagueño Ibn Simâk al-‘Àmilî, who lived in the Kingdom of Granada during the second half of the 14th century. This is mentioned in la zahra (“flower”) no. 59.

IGLESIA PARROQUIAL DE SAN BARTOLOMÉ

Descripción:

From the testimony of the visitor of the bishopric, we can learn that “the woodwork of the main nave was made of carved pine wood with its moldings, beams, and iron tie rods, and the ceiling of the lateral naves was similarly worked with a flat wooden ceiling with planks.” This means that the central nave would have a “par and knuckle” timber frame, while the lateral naves would be covered with a simpler type of wooden ceiling. The chief architect was Hernán Ruiz III.

At the end of the 16th century, the church was extended, prolonging the naves and adding the choir at the feet. As a result, the last section of the nave we see today is supported by two pillars with four twisted columns dating from 1579.

ERMITA DE LA MADRE DE DIOS

Descripción:

The original church had a trapezoidal plan due to its location at the angle between two streets. The façade was replaced in 1607. To the east, it was closed by a slightly distorted quadrangular-shaped main chapel, which still stands today and shows us its enclosing walls. The original chapel was covered with a Gothic ribbed vault of four elements, later transformed into Baroque style with an appearance of sharp angles, while the temple originally consisted of three naves, which are still standing today.

Historia:

In 1616, a major reform took place at this hermitage when the Dominican community acquired several nearby houses and settled in them until the construction of their convent, which would become the now-destroyed Convent of Jesús María de Scala Coeli, to which they moved in 1631.

IGLESIA DE NUESTRA SEÑORA DE GUADALUPE

Descripción:

The church consists of a large central nave without a transept and two lateral naves, separated by semicircular arches. Notable is the 16th-century Mudejar wooden ceiling that covers the main chapel, unique in its kind in the entire province, as well as a carved and polychrome wooden altarpiece from the second third of the 18th century.

IGLESIA DE SAN BATOLOMÉ DE BAENA

Descripción:

In the Epistle nave, there is the Chapel of the Sacrament, enclosed by a grille from the first half of the 16th century, with a top adorned with a noble coat of arms. There are two pulpits, both from the late 17th century, but the most important is the one on the Gospel side, which stands out for the richness of the carving on its sounding board.

As for the main door, it is noteworthy for the coat of arms of the Bishop of Córdoba, which is carved into the wooden leaves of the screen, and the bronze knockers from the 18th century.

From 1977 onwards, and due to the poor condition of the building, it underwent a major transformation, including the construction of vaults for the naves and the semi-circular arches that separate them, although the original pillars with attached columns were preserved.

CASAS CONSISTORIALES DE CASTRO DEL RÍO

Historia:

In the Guadajoz-Campiña Este region, there are no Mudéjar palaces like those found in other cities. This may be because people typically resided in palatial homes within the city, with distinguished visitors staying in the castle or even in the convent. An interesting example of this can be found in Baena, where the convent is connected to the fortress through a wall and an elevated passageway.

VALENZUELA

Descripción:

The surveys have shown that this area was densely populated during the Andalusian period. Among the most notable areas are Alcoba, Alcoba Baja, and Amarguillos, where numerous pieces of Arab pottery, glazes, and painted traces made with digital marks were found. There are also abundant remains in Carabaña, in Jardón and Las Puertas on the slope of Cerro de Fuente María. Additionally, remains can be found in Arroyelos, La Saladilla, and the surrounding areas between Baena, Castro el Viejo, and the Serranos farmstead.

CANCIONERO DE BAENA

Descripción:

The Muslim presence in the Iberian Peninsula introduced, among other things, traditional Arabic poetry, which became popular with the first lyrical expressions in Arabic and Andalusian: the zéjel and the muwassaha (or moaxaja or muasaja). The zéjel is a monorhymed triplet with a refrain and a fourth verse that rhymes with the refrain, which is repeated in the fourth verse of every stanza of the same song. The muwassaha is written in classical Arabic, while the zéjel is written in dialectal Arabic.

VILLANCICOS MOCHILEROS

Descripción:

The Ciego de Cabra, an Andalusian, would have spoken Romance, but his vulgar language and aljamiado did not prevent him from becoming one of the favorite poets of Sultan Abd Allah.
Antonio Roldán, chronicler of Cabra, also calls him the “seer” and includes very interesting testimonies in his book “La tradición oral. Salvar el legado”. Additionally, in his article “El sustrato apócrifo en los villancicos de Cabra y de la comarca de la Subbética Cordobesa”, published in “Crónica de Córdoba y sus pueblos XXVII”, he provides an extraordinary exploration of oral and apocryphal literature, highlighting traditional carols such as the one performed by the Mochileros de Llano del Espinar, “A Belén con el cascabelito”, which may have received direct Andalusian influence.

GASTRONOMÍA ANDALUSÍ

Descripción:

The cultural contacts between the Roman and Visigoth heirs—Mozarabs, Arabs, Berbers, Muladies, and Jews—combined with the agriculture of the region, the water from the Guadajoz River, the numerous orchards, and their novel crops, provide elements of aroma and flavor to the rich gastronomy of the area. Poultry, rabbit, lamb, offal, and fruits (figs, raisins, dates, peaches, plums, loquats, apples, pears, quinces, apricots, cherries, pomegranates, medlar fruits, blackberries, watermelon, melon, etc.) or vegetables and garden produce in general, give rise to compotes, jams, roasted dishes, stews, casseroles, marinated dishes, or seasonings mainly with olive oil, garlic, vinegar, and cilantro. Although al-Awwan mentions more than four hundred cultivated species in Al-Andalus in the 13th century, it gives us an idea of the gastronomic richness of the time. Many dishes, especially desserts, made good use of these: cinnamon, nutmeg, thyme, spearmint, cumin, oregano…

Many of the recipes appear in the traditional cookbook “122 Recipes with Great Taste” from the Guadajoz Consortium, where we find direct and indirect references to the gastronomic legacy.

PALACIO DE LOS LUNA

Descripción:

The Castle Palace of Pope Luna, located in the town of Illueca in Zaragoza, is the birthplace of Benedict XIII, the most famous pope not recognized in the official succession. The imposing building rises above the town center and was declared a Historic Artistic Monument in 1931. The structure of the Castle Palace of Pope Luna dates back to the 14th century, with Mudéjar features, although later Renaissance works have obscured these original elements. A monumental entrance, framed by towers, leads to a courtyard where the main staircase from the 17th century stands out. Other notable areas include the Golden Room and the Bedroom (from the 14th century), the Crown of Aragón Room (17th century), and the Mausoleum Room, where the remains of Benedict XIII were laid to rest.

The Hospedería Palacio del Papa Luna has preserved the historical dimension of the space it inhabits through numerous details in its decor. It offers 26 double rooms spread across three floors. Four of these are suites, among which two duplexes stand out, and particularly the one located in the southwest tower, due to the panoramic views it offers. This establishment provides a wide range of common services, such as a restaurant, social lounge, cafeteria, and meeting and conference rooms.

The great advantage of the gastronomic offering at the Hospedería del Castillo Palacio del Papa Luna lies in its versatility. In addition to traditional dishes and contemporary cuisine in its menu and à la carte options, the hotel also offers gastronomic programs for groups. The Restaurant El Castillo emphasizes the excellence of local products and provides a meticulous service to diners.

CASTILLO DE MESONES DE ISUELA

Descripción:

The Castle of Mesones was built in the 14th century, during a time when the Kingdoms of Aragón and Castile were embroiled in the War of the Two Pedros, represented by Pedro I of Castile and Pedro IV the Ceremonious of Aragón.

Although both signed a peace treaty in 1367, hostilities could break out at any moment, so the Ceremonious entrusted Lope Fernández de Luna with the protection of the border, and it was he who ordered the construction of this imposing fortress.

Next to the castle stands the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles. The polychrome wooden roof that conceals its small chapel is one of the great gems of the Mudéjar architecture of Aragón.

CATEDRAL DE TERUEL

Descripción:

The tower has a square plan and Christian structure with three bodies and an octagonal top; the first body opens with a pointed arch over the street and features green ceramic cylinders; the second body has a frieze of intertwined semi-circular arches and two semi-circular windows. In the third body, two series of semi-circular windows are opened. The rich wooden roof consists of a frame of paired and notched beams with double tie beams supported on corbels. The decoration is abundant, with geometric, heraldic, vegetal, epigraphic, and figurative motifs (such as trades, religious figures, kings, queens, knights, nobles, saints, etc.), forming a true encyclopedia of medieval life. The drum is an octagon with mullioned windows featuring Renaissance motifs.

The original construction dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. In the 14th century, it underwent its first major renovation, which included, among other things, the magnificent roof that covers the central nave. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, it underwent several expansions.

Historia:

We could say, in colloquial terms, that what is today the most important temple in the city of Teruel has had an “ascending and triumphant career”: construction began in 1171 as a parish church, with the Mudéjar tower at its feet completed in 1257. A tower that would serve as a model for the other towers in the city. In 1342, it was elevated to a Collegiate Church, and in 1587, it was definitively raised to the status of Cathedral. In 1987, its tower, drum, and roof were included in the list of Mudéjar monuments of Teruel declared World Heritage. Its roof is often referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Mudéjar.

TORRE E IGLESIA DE SAN MIGUEL DE LOS NAVARROS

Descripción:

The Church of San Miguel is documented since 1260, suggesting the existence of a Romanesque structure, which was likely expanded due to population growth, similar to other Romanesque churches in the city. Its distinctive Mudéjar decoration on the exterior is particularly concentrated in two areas: the parochial apse and the bell tower.

The apse has a five-sided polygonal shape. Prominent florid crosses are displayed in square shapes, with a frieze of crosses forming diamonds.
The bell tower, built in the 14th century, is square in shape and consists of three levels:
The lower body is plain, without decoration.
The middle body features panels of interwoven arches with mixed shapes and diamonds.
The bell chamber consists of two floors: the lower floor has geminated arches, while the upper floor displays a frieze of lobed arches and another of diamonds.
At the end of the 19th century, the tower was crowned with an iron forged spire.
Inside the church, the main altarpiece is of particular significance. Located at the head of the central nave, it is one of the most important works by the sculptor Damián Forment, who also created the altarpieces for the Basilica of El Pilar and the church of San Pablo. Made of gilded and polychromed pine wood, it is a Renaissance altarpiece with some Gothic influences. Among the sculptures, the one of Saint Michael, depicted fighting the devil, stands out for its size and quality.

TORRE DE LA ANTIGUA IGLESIA DE SAN MIGUEL

Descripción:

The tower is the only remaining vestige of the former Mudéjar church of San Miguel in Monzalbarba (Zaragoza), demolished in 1963. Documented around 1545, the Mudéjar tower reflects a period of architectural transition, where Renaissance elements blend with Mudéjar design. The tower was constructed using brick and consists of two bodies.

The lower body is square in shape and is richly decorated with brickwork. It is subdivided into three levels:

The first level is crowned with an almenada impost (a crenellated feature), similar to other towers in the region such as those in Torralba de Aragón, Utebo, and Peñaflor.
The second level features friezes with corner decorations (esquinillas) and crosses with multiple arms forming diamonds.
The third level has two slightly pointed openings and more diamond-shaped brickwork decoration.
The upper body of the tower is octagonal in shape and has a more modest design, characterized by its simpler and more restrained decoration. This upper section may belong to a later phase of construction or may reflect the work of a different master. It is marked by pilasters at the corners and semi-circular double openings on all sides of the octagon. The brick is used ornamentally, especially in the plantilla, the decorative brickwork pattern. According to Gonzalo Borrás, the lack of detailed decoration in the upper section suggests a phase of construction that is more austere compared to the lower section, signaling a shift in style or craftsmanship.

This tower is an important representation of the transition between the Mudéjar and Renaissance architectural styles in the region.

CASA DE LA ESTANCA

Descripción:

This singular building is located on the outskirts of Borja and is an example of Mudéjar civil architecture in Aragon. It was built by Antón de Veoxa in the 16th century, the same architect responsible for the Colegiata de Santa María de Borja. The building served as the residence for the person in charge of controlling the water supply and also functioned as a watchtower near an ancient reservoir that collected water from the Sorbán irrigation channel.

The structure has a square base, combining brick with ashlar stone at the base. It is a free-standing construction, forming a prismatic volume measuring 5.40 meters on each side. The building is divided into three floors, each corresponding to the three distinct sections on the facade, which are decorated differently.

The main facade, oriented to the south, follows a three-part design. The lower part is made of rough-hewn ashlar stone, with the left side covered in exposed brick. At the bottom, there is a central entrance with a wooden lintel, which is a later renovation and lacks decoration. The middle section was used as living space, divided into three rooms, including a kitchen and two bedrooms, in line with the 15th-century popular architectural style. These rooms are topped with simple beam ceilings.

The walls are decorated with raised brick panels featuring motifs such as double-angle crosses, with these panels framed by bands of corner decorations. The upper section houses a single room, with a four-pitched wooden roof, used to store the steward’s tools. Externally, this upper section is separated from the middle by a line of imposts, formed by a single row of bricks laid horizontally. There is also a gallery of arches at the top, featuring five arches on each side of the building. These arches are currently bricked up, except for the central one. The arched gallery is called a Galera Aragonesa, a typology typical of 16th-century Aragonese architecture.

In the 18th century, the building underwent some changes. Due to damage over time, the facade was likely rebuilt in 1779, following the original scheme but with a less rugged appearance.

ANTIGUA IGLESIA DE LA ASUNCIÓN

Descripción:

The Iglesia de El Piquete, also known as the Iglesia Vieja de Quinto, began construction in the early 14th century, around 1414. It was part of a larger defensive ensemble called La Corona. The design follows the traditional construction and decorative models used in the Ebro Valley during the 14th and 15th centuries.

Primarily constructed of brick, the church features brick decoration in patterns, though stone was also used for prominent elements, such as the base of the tower. In its Mudéjar period, the church had a single nave with two sections, a polygonal apse with five sides, towers at the feet of the church, and an exterior gallery that does not wrap around the apse. The church’s roof was covered with simple ribbed vaults.

On the lateral walls, the apse, and the straight sections of the presbytery, small chapels were built between the buttresses. Most of these chapels have undergone later modifications. Above these chapels, there is a walkway or tribune. The current nave has two additional sections, added during modern renovations to the north side.

The bell tower, which has a square plan and is made up of four bodies, is decorated with typical Mudéjar motifs such as eight-lobed knots, making it resemble the towers found at the feet of the Iglesia de San Félix in Torralba de Ribota.

Next to the tower is a portal adorned with plasterwork featuring shields of Don Fadrique de Aragón, Benedict XIII (the Pope Luna), and the Archbishop of Zaragoza, Don Francisco Clemente Pérez.

TORRE DE LA IGLESIA DE SAN PEDRO APÓSTOL

Descripción:

The Church of San Pedro in Romanos began construction in the 16th century, with its completion dated to 1609. The construction of the church involved the demolition of part of the castle in this locality, which was built in the 14th century. A section of the castle’s wall and two circular towers have been preserved. The remaining area of the castle was converted into a cemetery.

This church is a Gothic-Renaissance building with Levantine influence. Inside, it has a single nave covered by late Gothic ribbed vaults with a star-shaped design, and at the head of the church is a polygonal apse. The church is accessed through a stone arch.

One of the most remarkable features of the church is its magnificent defensive tower, which dates back to around 1400, predating the church itself. The tower is structured on a base with an access point in the form of a pointed arch. This entrance originally served as the access to the early church. The topmost part of the tower was later adapted to serve as a bell tower.

The tower is decorated with typical Mudéjar motifs from Aragón, including zigzag brickwork, intertwined arches, and corner decorations (esquinillas).

MEDINA ANDALUSÍ DE ZARAGOZA

Descripción:

The Islamization of Saraqusta (modern-day Zaragoza) was rapid, not so much due to the number of Muslims who arrived but because of the great incentives granted to Christians who converted to Islam (muladíes). Non-assimilated individuals had to pay special taxes and were grouped into two distinct neighborhoods: the Jews in the southeastern area (Coso Bajo, near San Carlos) and the Christians or Mozarabs around the Church of Santa María La Mayor, which is now the Basilica del Pilar.

Saraqusta was also known as Medina Albaida, the “white city,” due to the majority of its houses being covered with plaster and lime. The medina, the walled urban core, was the center of political and administrative power. Within it stood the Mezquita Aljama, which, after the Christian conquest in 1118, was consecrated as the Cathedral of San Salvador (La Seo).

The Alcazaba, or residence of the governor, was attached to the wall and had a fort in each of its four corners. The two facing the river housed the Zudas (fortified palaces), which still stand today, although heavily renovated: the Zuda of San Juan de los Panetes (or Zuda del Rey) and the Zuda del Santo Sepulcro.

Shops were typically grouped around the city gates and near the mosques, the areas with the highest foot traffic. There was a large souk around the Great Mosque and another near the Puerta Cinegia. Additionally, there was a custom house (alcaicería) in the present-day Plaza de la Verónica and a closed commercial area called an alhóndiga.

The main legacy of the glorious Saraqusta is the Palacio de la Aljafería, a leisure residence of the Muslim kings that reflects the splendor reached by the Taifa kingdom at its peak in both political and cultural power.

MEDINA ANDALUSÍ DE BARBASTRO

Descripción:

Remains of the north and south walls of the zuda (fortified alcazaba) have been identified in the walls of the Convento de las Madres Capuchinas, consisting of ashlar stone sections dated to the second half of the 10th century.

The medina of Barbastro experienced rapid growth due to its control over a large territory and its commercial networks, and it was praised in medieval Islamic chronicles. Its strategic location on a high promontory next to the Vero River made it a key point for Andalusian resistance against the Christian powers of the north. The city underwent its first period of splendor until the 11th century, becoming a fortified stronghold, a commercial city, and a center of Quranic studies.

In the Entremuro neighborhood and surrounding areas, there are various archaeological remains, including those already mentioned in the walls of the Convento de las Madres Capuchinas: ancient silos, wells, public baths, an Islamic suburb (arrabal), and an old mosque, among others. The cathedral would later be built in the location where the mosque aljama once stood.

Historia:

The Marca Superior, or northern frontier of Al-Andalus, encompassed the coras (provinces) of Huesca, Barusa, Lerida, Tudela, Zaragoza, and Barbitanya. The latter extended between the Alcanadre and Cinca rivers, initially with its capital in Boltaña. However, due to pressure from the Carolingians and their local allies, the capital was moved to Barbastro, which was newly founded by Jalaf Ibn Rashid in 802.

Sancho Ramírez temporarily took the city from the Muslims in 1064, marking what is considered the first crusade in history, but it did not permanently pass into Christian hands until 1100, under Pedro I of Aragon.

MAQBARA (NECRÓPOLIS ISLÁMICA) DE TAUSTE

Descripción:

Carbon-14 dating tests have determined that this cemetery functioned as a necropolis during the four centuries of Muslim rule in Aragonese lands, from the arrival of the first Muslims in the Ebro Valley in 714 until the early 12th century, when it became part of the Kingdom of Aragón. One of the most interesting pieces of information provided by this necropolis is that, considering the proximity of the suburbs of the medina to the burial area, and applying the population density calculations for urban centers of the time, the Andalusian medina of Tauste is estimated to have had about 3,000 inhabitants. It is believed that the maqbara (cemetery) could have contained more than 4,000 graves, making it one of the largest found in Spain.

MURALLA DE HUESCA

Descripción:

The wall has been an integral part of the history and layout of Huesca since the 9th century. A century earlier, in 719, the Visigothic city of Osca (a name originating from the Roman domain) fell into Muslim hands through a treaty or capitulation. It became one of the northernmost cities of Al-Andalus, renamed Wasqa in Arabic. Between 799 and 811, several Carolingian attempts to conquer the city failed, prompting the Córdoba emir Muhammad I to order his governor to protect the medina and its suburbs with a wall. Between the 8th and 11th centuries, the aljama mosque was also built on the site of the current cathedral, from which only a few horseshoe arches remain.

After the fall of the Córdoba Caliphate, Wasqa became part of the Zaragoza taifa, governed successively by the Tuyibí and Hudí dynasties. Under the rule of Lubb ben Hud, the only gold coin in the city’s history was minted, bearing inscriptions in Arabic.

In 1094, King Sancho Ramírez died before the city’s walls in a renewed attempt to conquer it, a feat which would be achieved by his son Pedro I of Aragón two years later.

CASTILLO MAYOR Y MURALLAS DE DAROCA

Descripción:

The Islamic wall in Daroca encompassed the present Castle Mayor—the alcazaba—and ascended from there up the San Cristóbal hill to its summit. It then descended to the present Tres Guitarros wall, cutting through the ravines of Grajera and Valcaliente, connecting with the base of Castle Mayor, enclosing the Andalusian medina. Under Christian rule, the walled perimeter was significantly expanded, reaching its current extent. The major expansion occurred during the 14th and 15th centuries, partly due to the Castilian incursions during the War of the Two Peters (1356-1367).

Daroca is the Aragonese city that has best preserved its fortified belt, with the unique feature of extending beyond the urban area. The walls rise dramatically along the hills surrounding the town, covering a perimeter of almost 4 kilometers, dotted with over a hundred towers and three castles along the way.

From what was once the largest walled enclosure in Aragon, there are splendid remnants such as the Portal de Valencia, the Puerta Baja, and the Puerta del Arrabal. Undoubtedly, one of the attractions of Daroca is walking along its walls, passing imposing towers, and reaching Castle Mayor, from where you can enjoy stunning views of the city.

You can walk the wall route, a marked and interpreted trail with explanatory panels, which takes around two hours to traverse the walled enclosure along the slope of San Cristóbal hill. Alternatively, you can walk from Grajera street to the Castle Mayor viewpoint in about 45 minutes.

MEZQUITA DE TÓRTOLES

Descripción:

The Mezquita de Tórtoles was built as a Muslim place of worship within Christian political territory, according to the foundational inscription by the architect Mahora Almorabid, between 1447 and 1455. Therefore, it is one of the few preserved historical examples of mosques built during the Christian era.

At that time, around 2,000 Muslims who had been forced to leave Tarazona after the Christian conquest lived in Tórtoles.

Inside, the key elements of the mosque are still distinct: the haram (prayer hall), the mihrab (prayer niche), the mimbar (pulpit), and the qibla wall. However, there is no evidence remaining of other features like the minaret or the sahn (outer courtyard) with the ablution fountain.

A standout feature is the preserved ceiling decoration, one of the most exceptional and interesting Mudejar iconographic and epigraphic sets in Aragon. Another notable feature inside the mosque is the set of pillow-dressed stones found in the qibla wall, next to the mihrab, which are remnants of a tower that was attached to the mosque in the mid-15th century.

In 1526, after the forced conversion of all Muslims to Christianity, the mosque quickly became the Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin. By the early 17th century, a lack of space led to the construction of a new church in Tórtoles, far from any earlier Islamic significance. The building, desacralized, fell into neglect and was used as a barn and storage for agricultural products.

In 1980, the discovery of what appeared to be a mihrab by the Centro de Estudios Turiasonenses marked the beginning of its recovery as a mosque and monument.

BAÑOS DEL ALMIRANTE

Descripción:

The Baños del Almirante (Admiral’s Baths) are the perfect place to experience something deeply connected to what Balansiya (the Andalusian Valencia) has left us. Their construction is much later than the city’s conquest in the 13th century. They are named after their proximity to the Palacio del Almirante (Admiral’s Palace), although in reality, the baths are independent buildings.

The current entrance, which is not the original one, features a horseshoe arch leading to a rectangular vestibule, which was built during a 19th-century renovation. After the vestibule, one enters a rectangular hall, covered with wooden beams. On the south wall of this room, two doors lead to the cold room and the hot room. On the west side of this hall, another door leads to a trapezoidal room, covered by a barrel vault and a flat roof.

The building consists of three vaulted chambers: the cold room, the tepid room, and the hot room. The walls are built very solidly and thick to withstand moisture and retain heat, with no other openings than the small doors connecting the various rooms and a few small star-shaped skylights covered with colored glass, originally. Typically, this complex, or the bath itself, was supplemented by a lobby or rest area, as well as service rooms such as the boiler room and the firewood storage.

Historia:

The Baños del Almirante were built between 1313 and 1320 by Pere de Vilarasa, a knight and jurist during the reign of Jaime II, resembling the vapor baths or hammams typical of Islamic architecture. Therefore, the complex can be considered part of the Mudejar architecture of Valencia.

In the 19th century, a restoration gave the baths a Neo-Arabic appearance. Another restoration project took place between 1961 and 1963, aimed at returning the baths to their original look. In 1993, the Baños del Almirante were declared a Bien de Interés Cultural (a Cultural Heritage site), and in 2001, they were renovated to make them accessible to the public.

MUSEO DE L'ALMOINA

Descripción:

The La Almoina archaeological site and the excavations carried out by the Valencia City Council since 1985 form a true historical and urban anthology of what the city has been. Located next to the Cathedral, it is a large underground space of 2,500 m² where the most monumental parts of the Roman, Visigoth, and Andalusian cities can be seen. Considered one of the best archaeological centers in Europe, it houses vestiges dating back to the founding of the city. From the Roman period, a sanctuary dedicated to Asclepius, a horreum (storage building), and baths have been preserved.

As for the Visigoths, the baptistery and the apse of the Visigoth Cathedral, as well as some associated tombs, remain.

Regarding the Andalusian period, the excavations uncovered part of the Alcázar: a noria (water wheel), a courtyard with a laundry area, and a fragment of the fortifications. After the Christian conquest by Jaime I in 1238, Balansiya became Valencia. By that time, Muslim constructions had covered the Roman and Visigoth structures, so new buildings were erected on top of the Islamic city. Among them, we can still see the Cathedral and the Archbishop’s Palace. The building of La Almoina, originally designed for the maintenance of the poor, is what gives the museum its name today.

Entering the site and walking through its “streets” offers a full history lesson. However, part of it can also be enjoyed from the exterior, as a pool with a glass floor allows visitors to see some of the archaeological remains.

TRIBUNAL DE LAS AGUAS

Descripción:

The Tribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de Valencia, more commonly known as the Tribunal de las Aguas de Valencia, is the only legislative structure that remains from those established by Jaime I. The Andalusis already practiced this irrigation system, which the king formally established, based on the distribution of water from the Turia River.

There are eight main irrigation channels (acequias) that draw water from the Turia River through their azudes (water gates). The communities that manage these channels are governed by ancient ordinances, passed down orally since Andalusí times and written down since the early 18th century. A democratically elected managing board, consisting of members from the community, oversees the strict enforcement of the rules. All members must be farmers, direct cultivators of their land, and renowned for their “honesty.” The syndic-president and members of the board are assisted by the Guardia de la Acequia, an employee who ensures the water is distributed according to the scheduled turns, reporting any infractions so that they can be prosecuted and judged by the Tribunal de las Aguas.

Every Thursday, the eight farmers, dressed in the traditional black blouses of the Huerta people, gather at the Puerta de los Apóstoles of the Cathedral. Seated in a circle on 17th-century wooden and leather armchairs, they resolve disputes and deliver justice.

The structure of the irrigation system, the participation of the farmers, and the swift resolution of issues have brought the Tribunal de las Aguas to international prominence, with many considering it a model institution.

MERCADO CENTRAL

Descripción:

The Mercado Central is located in the Plaza del Mercado, next to the Lonja de la Seda and the Plaza de la Ciudad de Brujas. It originated during the Valencia Andalusí period. Its commercial development was consolidated around 1344, and its fame quickly spread across Europe. French traders came to Valencia to sell fabrics and lace on Calle dels Drets, while Genoese and Maltese merchants monopolized the linen trade on Calle Bolsería, and Swiss and German traders sold inexpensive hardware.

The square has stood, since ancient times, next to the former Arab suburb of La Boatella, near the entrance of the Islamic city wall Bab Al-Qaysariyya, on what was once a dried branch of the Turia River. After the Christian conquest, King Jaime I granted permits to hold public markets in certain cities of the Kingdom, marking the beginning of the square’s commercial activity. However, its significance goes beyond commerce, as it has also been a place for social gatherings, festivals, judicial meetings, and other events, once being one of the most vibrant points in the city.

The market building is in Modernista Valencian style, and construction began in 1914 under the design of Francesc Guàrdia i Vial and Alexandre Soler i March, both trained at the School of Architecture of Barcelona and collaborators of Domènech i Montaner, an architect known for his unique style within the modernist movement.

MUSEO NACIONAL DE CERÁMICA-PALACIO MARQUÉS DE DOS AGUAS

Descripción:

The museum’s layout follows a chronological path, beginning with a room displaying panels with explanations about the evolution of ceramics from the Neolithic period. The room showcases materials and provides explanations of the techniques used, with pieces from various cultures such as Greek, Iberian, and Roman.

On the second floor, you’ll find the room dedicated to Hispano-Muslim ceramics, featuring pieces from the 9th to the 14th century. The Mudéjar and Moorish ceramics are well-represented, primarily with pieces from the Valencian region created in Muslim workshops. Notable items include those from the 13th and 14th centuries, decorated with green and manganese, with white tin-glazed covers, metallic reflections, and cobalt blue. One standout piece is a 13th-century garden fountain, discovered in Plaza de la Figuereta in Valencia, made with tiles in green, white, and black forming geometric patterns.

Historia:


In 1969, after expanding its collections with numerous objects of furniture, clothing, painting, and other items from the Valencian tradition and its native authors, it was decided that the museum would showcase, alongside ceramics, luxury art objects. As a result, it was renamed the Museo Nacional de Cerámica y de las Artes Suntuarias-González Martí.

PORTAL DE LA VALLDIGNA

Descripción:

After the conquest of Valencia by James I in 1238, the Muslims had to leave the interior of the urban area. Many emigrated to other lands, but those who chose to stay could do so under the protection of the king, in a space assigned to them outside the walls but next to them: the Morería, which occupied part of the current Carmen district, around Mossen Sorell Square. There, the Mudéjares (the name given to Muslims under Christian rule) were able to maintain their religious practices, customs, and own laws with some autonomy, although they could not belong to any guild or brotherhood, nor have jurisdiction over any Christian.

The Gate or Portal of La Valldigna is the small opening in the 11th-century Islamic wall that connected the interior of the city with the outskirts of the Morería. It is a pointed arch in Valencian Gothic style, made of ashlar stone, with a slight projection in the imposts.

Above the arch is a reproduction of the original altarpiece that once existed there, dedicated to the Virgin, and which was placed in 1589. The altarpiece depicts King James II of Aragon during the founding of the Valldigna Monastery, which he granted to the abbot of the Santes Creus Monastery, with an inscription accompanying the image that reads: “Aquesta vall per a la vostra causa” (This valley for your cause).

At the top of the altarpiece is the representation of the Virgin with the coats of arms of the city of Valencia and the Valldigna Monastery. This altarpiece, dating from the 1960s, is accompanied by an inscription that reads: “Nostra Dona de la Bona Son, Pregueu per nós’ Portal de Valldigna” (Our Lady of Good Sleep, Pray for Us, Portal of Valldigna).

Coinciding with the War of the Two Pedros, which pitted the kingdoms of Aragon and Castile against each other, the Valencian Mudéjar community experienced moments of prosperity. The construction of the Christian wall in 1356 left the Morería inside the city, and the Mudéjares played a decisive role in the urban economic development, standing out in textile, metal (blacksmiths, sword makers), glass, and ceramics manufacturing, all of which would gain great fame throughout the Mediterranean. A class of wealthy Mudéjar merchants emerged, maintaining good relations with their Christian counterparts. Some of the names of this Mudéjar merchant elite, which have survived to this day, include Xupió, Ripoll, Bellvís, Juniz, Razbaida, Malull, and Xocar.

GALERÍA DEL TOSSAL- MURALLA ÁRABE

Descripción:

After the fall of the Caliphate of Córdoba at the beginning of the 11th century, Valencia became the capital of a taifa kingdom that experienced significant urban growth. Between 1021 and 1061, during the reign of Abd al-Aziz, a new wall was built to accommodate the existing population and those arriving from other parts of Al-Andalus. According to the description of the Andalusian geographer al-Udrí, the wall was of great perfection and had five gates: al-Qantara, al-Warraq, Ibn Sajar, Hanas, and al-Qaysariyya.

From the 12th century onwards, the walled enclosure was expanded, incorporating new defensive elements and reinforcing strategic points for better defense. In the present-day Carmen Quarter, several sections of the wall and elements of this fortification (remnants of towers, etc.) are still visible. The wall was made of rammed earth concrete and had semicircular towers built with masonry and solid up to the last floor, where a vaulted room was opened. The wall section and tower found in the Tossal Gallery correspond to the fortified enclosure of the Islamic city of Balansiya. Both formed part of a bent gate built in the 12th century to reinforce the city’s defenses. The wall is 2.5 meters wide and made of rammed earth concrete (lime, sand, and stones). The tower, constructed with the same technique at its base, originally continued with rammed earth until it reached a height of at least 11 meters.

L'ALBUFERA

Descripción:

The word albufera, which, as mentioned, comes from the Arabic al-buhayra, meaning “the little sea” or “the small lake” in Spanish, is quite descriptive of the reality it refers to: a large lagoon of salty or slightly brackish water, separated from the sea by a sandbar, but still maintaining communication with it through several points. In the Valencian Community, specifically about 10 kilometers from the city of Valencia, we find the Albufera Natural Park, a natural wonder recognized by many organizations, though few truly know it in depth.

The territories of what is now the Albufera Natural Park originated thousands of years ago when a marine gulf, stretching between the mouths of the Turia and Júcar rivers, was separated from the Mediterranean Sea by the natural creation of a sandy barrier. Later, La Albufera was exploited, initially through hunting, and later through rice cultivation, which remains a fundamental pillar of the area today. Thus, with the help of human hands, the main natural habitats of the region have been defined, making them the central feature of any route worth taking in the area.

Historia:

Originating 1.8 million years ago during the Pleistocene, the Romans referred to this vast coastal lagoon as Nacarum Stagnum (Lake of Mother-of-Pearl), likely due to the iridescent reflections it emits at sunset. However, it was the Arabs of Al-Andalus who gave it its definitive name: al-buhayra. During the Andalusian period, the Treatise on Hydraulics and the Topography of the Mediterranean Coasts, by the Almohad prince Sid Abu Said, describes this lake. Starting in the 15th century, the introduction of rice cultivation sweetened the marshland system and accelerated the filling in of the original marshes. It was declared a natural park in 1986.

BARRIO DEL CARMEN

Descripción:

The Barrio del Carmen, located in the northwest corner of the historic center, is the most well-known area of Valencia. It gets its name from the Church and Convent of Carmen Calzado and is famous for being a haven for lovers of Mediterranean gastronomy and leisure. While the area’s abundance of restaurants and establishments is hard to fully explore, the Barrio del Carmen is much more than that. It is a part of Ciutat Vella with a thousand years of history, featuring excellent examples of medieval architecture, a rich artistic heritage, hundreds of historical anecdotes, and the origin of many local legends. The Barrio del Carmen is a perfect combination of history and leisure.

In fact, an original section of the old Andalusian wall can still be found here. This historical stretch is located at the boundary between the Barrio del Carmen and the Ensanche, and it is one of the most important remnants of the city’s history. The wall, commonly known as the “Arab Wall,” was built between the 11th and 13th centuries to defend the city from external attacks. It was constructed with bricks and stones, stretching for approximately 12 kilometers.

In the 11th century, shortly after the wall’s initial construction, an area outside of it gradually became more agriculturally active. Some houses were built, joining a few existing rural settlements. The location outside the city walls explains why the remains of the Islamic fortifications are most visible here today. The area grew behind the wall, preserving and integrating it into the new buildings. Notable examples of this are the stretch and tower found near the Plazas del Ángel and de los Navarros, as well as the Calle de la Cruz, or even inside the Montaner oven.

TORRES DE SERRANOS

Descripción:

Standing at 33 meters tall, the towers were surrounded by a defensive moat and face the bridge, also known as the Serranos Bridge, which crosses the Turia River. On the rear facade, the towers are flattened and feature several vaulted rooms open to the city. This design was intended to prevent both enemies and the soldiers defending the towers from fortifying themselves and using the structures against the city. Additionally, these rooms served as viewing galleries where the noble classes of Valencia could observe the arrival of ambassadors and kings into the city. From this facade, a staircase leads to these noble rooms, which are covered with ribbed vaults, and to the upper terrace.

One of the gates of Islamic Balansiya, Bab Al-Qantara (The Bridge Gate), was located behind the current Torres de Serranos. At this point, the wall turned southwest, penetrating through the current block of buildings between Rocas Street and Plaza de los Fueros, passing through Roteros Street and continuing along Palomino Street, where it coincides with the odd-numbered facades. From the central gallery of the Serranos towers, it’s still possible to see the circular shape of the first tower, above the roof of the aforementioned block of buildings between Rocas and Fueros.

Historia:

Construction of the Torres de Serranos began in 1392 under the direction of Pere Balaguer. The towers were built as defenders of one of the most frequently used access points to the old Valencia. In 1865, the city walls were demolished, leaving the towers exposed. From 1586 to 1887, they were used as a prison for the nobility. Later, the rear part of the towers was uncovered, and from Plaza de los Fueros, five rooms with pointed arches and ribbed vaults can be seen. The Torres de Serranos are a magnificent example of Valencian Gothic architecture.

RUZAFA

Descripción:

The gardens created by Prince Abd Allah al-Balansi, located about two kilometers from Balansiya, were named al-Rusafa by him. These gardens did not remain long as a recreational area for the Umayyad dynasty, as their descendants no longer lived in Valencia. However, they continued to inspire Andalusian poets. In the 12th century, the famous Al-Russafi, who gave his name to two public libraries in the current neighborhood, dedicated verses to praise the beauty of those gardens.

A century later, during the Christian siege and conquest of Valencia in 1238, the troops camped in this area. After the conquest, the gardens were transformed into agricultural estates, resulting in an alquería, or small rural community, which continued to expand and eventually became part of the outskirts of Valencia. From 1811, it was an independent municipality for more than 65 years, until it was officially annexed in 1877, becoming one of the city’s neighborhoods.

One of the defining features of Ruzafa is undoubtedly its colorful market, inaugurated in 1957. In front of it stands the Church of San Valero and San Vicente Mártir, known as the Cathedral of Ruzafa. Although it was rebuilt in 1939 after a fire, it stands on a previous 15th-century temple, giving an idea of the ancient origins of the Ruzafa settlement. In the surrounding area, you can also visit the Convent of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, which stands on the site where Zayán ibn Mardanish, the last Muslim king of Valencia, signed the surrender of the city to Jaume I on September 29, 1238.

Zayán, originally from Onda, became Malik Balansiya (King of Valencia) by dethroning the Almohad governor Zayd Abu Zayd, thereby restoring the Taifa of Valencia until the Christian conquest.

Historia:

The origin of Ruzafa lies in a recreational garden built by Abd Allah al-Balansi in the 9th century, about 2 km from the city of Valencia, modeled after the one his father, Abderramán I, had built near Córdoba. This estate likely disappeared fairly quickly, as Al-Balansi’s sons did not continue living in Valencia. However, the landscaped area around it was preserved and became a place of leisure and a public park, as evidenced by poets like al-Russafi, al-Saqundi, Ibn Amira, and Ibn al-Abbar, among others. Around these gardens, an alquería was formed, which became the nucleus of the later settlement.

LONJA DE LA SEDA

Descripción:

The Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) of Valencia, also known as the Lonja de Mercaderes, is located in the center of the city, across from the Central Market and the Church of Santos Juanes. It occupies a rectangular area of approximately 1,990 square meters.

The silk industry in Valencia dates back to the 8th century with the expansion of Islam, when the Arabs introduced silkworms, creating a unique landscape: without the famous Valencian orchards, the fields were then filled with mulberry trees. Later, in the city’s center, the fabric was manufactured, giving rise to a powerful guild that reached its peak until the late 18th century. When the Church of Santos Juanes was still a mosque under Muslim rule, the area was already a hub for merchants and traders.

By the late 13th century, the old Silk Exchange proved insufficient due to the city’s prosperity, so in 1469, the decision was made to build a new one. The first stone was laid in 1492, although construction began a year later. The key figure in the construction was Pere Compte, a citizen of Valencia, who served as both engineer and architect.

The Lonja consists of three clearly defined sections and a garden, or “orange tree courtyard.” The Column Hall, or Sala de Contratación, is divided into three longitudinal naves and five transverse ones, supported by eight free-standing columns that bear the vaulted ceilings. The height of 17.40 meters gives the columns a monumental presence, resembling palm trees. In this hall, the Taula de Canvis, established in 1407 by the City Council, was installed. It gained great prestige for its financial solvency and the volume of banking transactions.

CATEDRAL DE VALENCIA

Descripción:

The site of the Valencia Cathedral has been a place of worship since Roman times, as it was home to a temple dedicated to Jupiter or Diana, of which columns still stand today in the Almoina Museum, adjacent to the cathedral. Later, it became the location of a Visigoth episcopal church, and subsequently, the site of the main mosque of Andalusian Valencia.

The Cathedral of Valencia primarily features Gothic architecture, although it incorporates numerous elements from different periods, ranging from Romanesque to Baroque. The construction of the current layout began in the 13th century, featuring a Latin cross, a radiating chapel, and a dome over the crossing. In the 15th century, the Chapter House (now the Chapel of the Holy Grail), the dome, the Miguelete Tower, and the Apostles’ Gate were built. Also notable are the Baroque-style Iron Door and the Romanesque Palau or Almoina Gate. The Holy Grail, venerated in the cathedral, is believed to date back to the 1st century and was given to the cathedral by King Alfonso the Magnanimous in 1437.

EL PALACIO DE LOS CONDES DE CERVELLÓN

Descripción:

The original Almohad castle only retains the foundations at the rear of the palace. In 1244, after the Christian conquest, King Jaume I granted the village of Anna to the Order of Santiago, and the building then served as a castle for different lords. Its walls underwent few transformations until 1604, when Philip III turned the village into a county and granted the title to Fernando Pujades de Borja, who transformed the fortress into a palace.

The last noble reference is that of the Counts of Cervellón, who gave the palace its name, and who in 1890 sold their properties to Ricardo Trénor Bucelli, a millionaire bourgeois whose descendants, in 1980, negotiated the sale of the building to the City Hall, which then began its restoration and turned it into a museum.

The palace features several noteworthy spaces, such as the Sala de Borja, de Cervellón, or de Anna… However, some of the most striking and beautiful spaces pay homage to Anna’s Andalusian past and masterfully recreate the keys of Islamic art. The rectangular courtyard, located at the center of the palace, with fountains, a small pond dotted with sprayers, shrubs, aromatic plants, and geometric decorations, stands out. But the greatest decorative wealth can be found in the Arabic Rooms: magnificent ceramic mosaics cover the walls and columns, multicolored marble arranged in geometric patterns covers the floors, and intricately painted woodwork adorns the ceilings, while horseshoe arches frame the sides of the large hall that opens onto the courtyard. All of this was created by contemporary Muslim artisans.

VICENTE GRACIA JOYAS

Descripción:

Vicente Gracia was born in Valencia on March 8, 1961. He is the middle child of Francisco Gracia, a self-made jeweler and businessman, and Trinidad Bensa. He spent his childhood between the family home in the Ruzafa neighborhood, with his mother, aunts, and cousins around his aunt Manolita’s sewing workshop, and his father’s jewelry workshop, where they restored the jewels of the Valencian aristocracy. His first pieces of jewelry were made from electrical materials (copper and transmitters) alongside gold and silver. El Reóforo, the avant-garde collection that earned him the National Design Award in 1986, marked his full integration into the Movida, the countercultural movement that emerged after the Franco regime. He was part of “Espacio 12,” created by Manuel Carrera for jewelry design innovation, alongside Joaquín Berao, Oriol Bohigas, Lucía Dominguín, Ana Saura, Paloma Picasso, and others. He also directed the “Cuadernos de Tendencias” (Trends Notebooks) at the Valencia Jewelry Fair, Fijova.

The jewelry store, located at 4 Calle de la Paz, occupies the main floor of a building constructed in 1898, one of the few examples of Neo-Mudejar architecture in Valencia.

LA CERÁMICA VALENCIANA

Descripción:

The Andalusian period represents a crucial moment in the history of Valencian ceramics, as the Muslims introduced the core technical and functional foundations that would later shape the ceramic tradition throughout the Iberian Peninsula. This tradition remained influential until well into the 19th century, and even persisted in many domestic uses until the mid-20th century.

The Islamic ceramic artisan perfected the techniques used up to that point, creating the glazed effect. After the pieces were subjected to an initial firing, they were dipped in a tin-glaze. The color applied afterward would then appear with greater brilliance. Another significant innovation introduced by the Muslims was the use of mineral pigments to achieve various colors. The most commonly used was blue, derived from cobalt oxide. Tin oxide produced white, iron yielded yellow, manganese provided black, and copper gave the green color.

The decoration of ceramic pieces was heavily influenced by Islamic culture. Vegetal motifs were predominant, such as the Tree of Life. The five-pointed star symbolized the fusion of the male triangle, with the tip upwards, and the female triangle, with the tip down. The Hand of Fatima was another commonly used decorative element. Human representation was prohibited in Islamic culture, so the ceramics were primarily domestic wares.

Tiles (azulejos) have a special place in the history of ceramics. While their origins trace back to Mesopotamia and Egypt about 2600 years ago, it was the Arabs who brought them to Spain in the 8th century. The word “azulejo” derives from the Arabic “az-zulaiy”, meaning “the little brick” or “polished stone.” However, in Valencian, the term evolved into “rajola.” The tiles could be square (rajoles), rectangular (rajoletes), or hexagonal (alfardons). They were used to pave floors, often combined with red tiles. For the flooring, the Andalusian technique of “alicatado” was used, where ceramic pieces of various shapes and sizes were arranged like a puzzle to form intricate designs.

Valencian ceramics began to expand significantly from the 8th century onwards with the arrival of the Arabs, shaping the region’s rich ceramic tradition that would persist for centuries.

Historia:

Valencian ceramics experienced significant expansion starting in the 8th century with the arrival of the Arabs. They introduced important innovations such as the use of mineral pigments to achieve various colors. The most commonly used color was blue, derived from cobalt oxide. Tin oxide was used to produce white, iron created yellow, manganese gave black, and copper was used for green.

LA DOLÇAINA Y LA MÚSICA VALENCIANA

Descripción:

The precursor instruments to the dolçaina originated in Mesopotamia around 3,000 BCE. In antiquity, there was a wide variety of similar wind instruments with a reed and conical shape, all of which were classified under the term “abub”. These instruments became so popular and widespread across Mediterranean cultures that they even displaced flutes. However, they were on the brink of disappearing in the early Middle Ages when the Nordic invasions introduced their own instruments, such as the horn. By the 5th century, reed wind instruments had almost entirely disappeared. It was the Arabs who reintroduced them to the Iberian Peninsula starting in the 8th century.

This explains why for a long period of time, dolçainas were found only in the southern regions, cited in texts with Arabic variants of the word zolami, which was very common in musical writings of Al-Ándalus. The first name for the dulzaina in Castilian texts was albogue, documented in the Libro de Alexandre (13th century). It later appears in El Libro de Buen Amor by the Archpriest of Hita, and in Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes, either as chirimía, dulzaina, or albogue.

The significance of Sufism in Al-Ándalus and its relationship with music must not be overlooked. Ibn al-Jatib mentions the consideration that the government authorities in Granada had toward the mystical brotherhoods and Sufis, and he recounts how the ceremonial use of incense to purify the celebration halls was followed by the sound of the dulzaina (al-mizmar). While the use of this oboe-type instrument was not the most common in Sufi rituals, the cane flute (al-nay) was. Many of those compositions from the cultured Andalusian tradition are still performed today in the current repertoires of Maghreb nawbas and in Sufi brotherhoods.

Historia:

The relevance of Sufism in Al-Ándalus and its relationship with music is also crucial to understanding the cultural context of the time. Ibn al-Jatib mentions the respect shown by governmental authorities in Granada toward the mystical brotherhoods and Sufis, and he recounts that the ceremonial use of incense to purify the hall for the celebration continued with the sound of the dulzaina (al-mizmar). Although this oboe-like aerophone was not the most common in Sufi rituals, it was the cane flute (al-nay) that was more characteristic in the al-sama’ sessions. Many of those compositions from the cultured Andalusian tradition are still interpreted today in the current repertoires of Maghreb nawbas and in Sufi brotherhoods.

In Sufi traditions, the music often served not just as entertainment, but as a spiritual medium for reaching a higher state of consciousness, with the al-nay playing a central role in the meditative and trance-inducing elements of the ceremonies. However, the use of instruments like the dulzaina (especially in the ceremonial purification of the space) speaks to the broader cultural context in which both religious practices and musical traditions intertwined.

IGLESIA-FORTALEZA DE SAN FÉLIX

Descripción:

The Church of San Félix in Torralba de Ribota is one of the purest examples of Aragonese Mudéjar architecture. It follows the most characteristic typology of Mudéjar churches in Aragon, with a single nave, a straight apse, and open chapels between buttress towers, above which runs a walkway open to the exterior, giving the building a strong military character.

It has an Islamic design in the apse and late Gothic features at the foot of the church, and its floor plan remains unaltered.

The interior decoration stands out for its vivid colors: greens, reds, blues, and blacks, simulating bricks, lacework, and arches. Another surprising feature is the inscription in plaster in the chapel closest to the apse: “Say: There is no god but Allah…”.

This typology of fortress-churches in Aragon arose in a historically tumultuous context. The western territory of what was once the Crown of Aragon experienced intermittent border tensions with the Crown of Castile during the Late Middle Ages. These conflicts escalated into a full-scale military confrontation by the mid-14th century, known as the War of the Two Pedros. From this time of military strife in the far west of what is now Zaragoza, in the Calatayud region, there remain very interesting Mudéjar churches, whose ornamental beauty is complemented by structures built for observation, resembling watchtowers, and for defense against the enemy.

Historia:

The first record of the construction of the Church-Fortress of San Félix dates back to 1367, when the building of a new church was ordered to replace the old one, which had been destroyed during the War of the Two Pedros. This coincided with the mandates of the bishops of Tarazona, Don Pedro Pérez Calvillo and Don Juan de Valtierra, whose heraldic symbols are prominently displayed in various parts of the magnificent interior of the building. Its construction was completed in 1420. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, Renaissance and Baroque altarpieces were added to the chapels. The church was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1931.

CASTILLOS Y MURALLAS DE CALATAYUD

Descripción:

In 716, at a crossroads by a bridge over the Jalón River, the “mother” fortress (qal’at) was likely built, which would eventually give rise to a vast fortified system and the Andalusian city or medina of Calatayud.

The fortified complex, which remains almost unchanged outside the urban area since its construction between the 8th and 9th centuries, consists of several elements: the walls; a citadel called Castillo Mayor (also known as Castillo de Ayud or Plaza de Armas); an inner albacara or Castillo de la Torre Mocha (also known as Cocción del Moro); the so-called Castillo de la Peña, which houses the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Peña; the Castillo de Don Álvaro; Castillo de Doña Martina; Castillo del Picado; and the Lonjía. One of the wall sections also preserves a 9th-century Emiral Gate with a horseshoe arch.

The oldest buildings share Islamic architectural features such as the use of tapial construction, false arches, and vaulted ceilings made by approaching layers of masonry, as well as barrel vaults to cover square rooms.

Castillo Mayor is large, measuring about 100 by 50 meters, constructed with tapial and stone.

Castillo de Doña Martina, with an oval layout, is the only one using large stone blocks, though other parts are made of rubble masonry.

Castillo de la Torre Mocha is located next to Castillo Mayor and consists of a walled enclosure with an octagonal tower that rises considerably in height.

The so-called Castillo Real is located south of the Mayor, and between them lies the enclosure of the Longía, made up of several towers (some in better condition than others) and walls connecting the Castillo Mayor with the Real.

From Castillo de la Peña, located at the southwestern end of the complex, only the foundation and some chambers carved into the rock remain, as the church of Virgen de la Peña was later built on top of it.

Historia:

During the emirate and caliphate of Córdoba, the frontier separating the territories of Al-Ándalus from the Christian kingdoms was organized into three sectors: the Upper March, which extended from the Mediterranean to Moncayo, with its capital in Zaragoza; the Middle March, which included the territories south of the Sistema Central, with an initial capital in Toledo that later moved to Medinaceli; and the Lower March, covering from Extremadura to the Atlantic, with its capital in Mérida. To prevent the advance of the Christians from the north and to protect the border population—a mainly rural population—the Andalusian leaders devised a system of fortresses, towers, and watchtowers of a military nature.

In the border area stretching between the Duero and Jalón rivers, covering a strip of land between 40 and 60 kilometers deep, there were two centers of power: Medinaceli (which, as we have noted, became the capital of the March) and Calatayud. Calatayud thus became the center of an extensive network of fortifications, and its founding, as a new settlement, was driven by a military need: to ensure the presence of Muslims and prevent the Christian advance.

CASTILLO DE MALUENDA

Descripción:

The fortress has an elongated shape, measuring about 80 meters along its major axis and with a variable width between 10 and 20 meters, adapted to the summit of a hill that overlooks the town.

It consists of two towers and an enclosed wall, which, although partially preserved on the side facing the town, has almost entirely disappeared on the opposite side. These towers are located on the western side of the fortress; they are rectangular and of large volume, although they have suffered significant damage, including the loss of their upper portions. According to La Chanson de Roland, when Charlemagne organized his campaign against Zaragoza, Blancandrín was the fortress’s commander, suggesting it was one of the earliest strongholds built by the Muslims in Al-Ándalus. It is also mentioned in the chronicle of Al-Udrí, which states that even Abderrahman III camped before its walls. Alfonso I El Batallador eventually ended Muslim rule over the area. During the War of the Pedros, the fortress was captured by the Castilians in 1363.

TORRE DEL PALOMAR

Descripción:

It is believed that this tower is contemporary to the castle, dating from the 10th century, and that the original crenellations were later replaced with a brick finish. This finish resembles an arcade gallery or an Aragonese solana (porch) from the 15th century.

The workmanship is characteristic of Muslim and local masons from the surrounding area, though it remains unclear whether they worked under Andalusian orders or at the behest of the Christian occupiers.

Regarding its function, it is possible that the tower was not only designed for its natural tactical and defensive role of surveillance and flanking but also for the vital purpose of storing extra water supplies. Beneath the tower, there is a cistern carved into the rock, which reaches a depth of at least 14 meters below the surface, providing a water supply independent from the castle’s cisterns.

This Cultural Heritage site has been recently renovated through private initiative. The top two floors now house the headquarters of a research and development company, while the remaining floors are dedicated to hosting temporary exhibitions.

IGLESIA DE SANTA TECLA

Descripción:

Built and constructed by Mahoma Rami. With God.” Around 1426, as if anticipating the future significance the church would have, the master builder of Santa Tecla, a Muslim architect who was favored by Pope Benedict XIII, left his signature carved in plaster at the feet of the temple. Nearly 600 years later, the work of this builder, mixed with significant reforms undertaken in the 16th century, stands out within the select group of Gothic-Mudejar architecture in Aragon. Its walls, decorated with paint resembling stone masonry, its beautiful ribbed vaults adorned with black dragons as decorative motifs, and the large floral rose windows typical of late Gothic. Santa Tecla also incorporates other heraldic motifs, with the shields of Aragon and that of Cervera de la Cañada in the plasterwork, on the walls, and on the wooden ceiling that supports the choir. The church has a single nave with a polygonal presbytery. It was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO for having a unique style in the world, maintaining a good state of preservation, and for its unmatched beauty.

TORRE DE LA IGLESIA DE LA ASUNCIÓN DE TERRER

Descripción:

The tower has a square plan with two superimposed bodies, the upper one being slightly narrower than the lower one. The lower body has the structure of a Hispano-Muslim minaret: a central square pier surrounded by the external tower; between the two, the staircase box is located, covered by typical small vaults formed by the approximation of rows, and illuminated through small, narrow loopholes carved into the wall. It is this lower body that holds all the decorative richness, consistent on all faces and made of raised brick and ceramics: after the undecorated lower third, three ornamental panels are arranged, limited by corner bands of the same width but varying heights. The first panel features ten interlaced mixed-line arches; the central panel displays crosses with numerous arms forming a diamond-shaped grid, with small crosses inscribed, and the final panel consists of loops creating star-shaped forms, inside which there are white ceramic plates with decorative motifs in green and manganese. It is notable that these ceramic discs are not elements created purely for decorative purposes, as is typical in Mudejar architecture, but rather luxury domestic ware that has been reused. This fact, along with the location’s belonging to the Lordship of the Luna family, has led to speculation about a possible patronage by Pope Benedict XIII.

Historia:

Terrer is known from the Andalusian period, as it is mentioned in the Cantar del Mío Cid, and the remains of its Islamic castle can still be seen today. In the Middle Ages, it was a lordship of the Luna family. Its population was primarily composed of Mudéjares, who were engaged in agriculture and the production of bricks and tiles.

TORRE E IGLESIA DE NUESTRA SEÑORA DEL CASTILLO

Descripción:

The fortification consists of a large religious building and a walled defensive enclosure. The church, dedicated to the Virgin of the Castle, is in the Gothic style, although the tower and one of its walls are older, built in the Mudejar style. The fortified enclosure is made of masonry and features battlements. The exterior wall is of considerable height, while the interior is about one and a half meters high. The enclosure is accessed through a large portal built with high-quality ashlar masonry and topped with battlements. The exterior arch is semi-circular, while the interior arch is a lowered one. It also features narrow arrow slits with a wide internal spread on both sides of the entrance.

Historia:

Originally, it was a Gothic-Mudejar church from the 14th century, which was extensively remodeled in the 16th century when the parish was expanded and the gable and upper part of the tower were built. The Church of Our Lady of the Castle in Aniñón was declared a Cultural Heritage Site in 1981. This declaration was later expanded and completed in 2001 by the Department of Culture and Tourism of the Government of Aragón.

NORIA DE TERRER

Descripción:

The waterwheels (norias) are equipped with a large wheel with transverse blades, partially immersed in the courses of the mill canals, which, with their flow, generated continuous motion through their action on the blades. The wheel features a row of tin containers along its perimeter, which, in the area of Terrer, where this waterwheel is located, were predominantly referred to as arcaduces (from the Arabic al-qadus), in contrast to the term cangilón used in other areas. Similarly, in this region, the term noria (from the Arabic nau-rah) became dominant over aceña, which we find in place names in neighboring regions. The word aceña also derives from Arabic, used in Al-Ándalus as assánya, which in turn comes from classical Arabic sāniyah.

AZUD SAGRADO

Descripción:

The azudes (al-sudd) were one of the most common elements of hydraulic engineering in Al-Ándalus. Most of them had the purpose of diverting water from the riverbed to canals and aqueducts, although they also served to slow down the powerful currents during floods and to raise the water level to a height necessary for diversion. Indirectly, they also contributed to the leisure of the Andalusians, who would visit them in their free time to bathe, embark, or even drink.

In the case of the Sacred Azud of Calatayud, the diverted water did not come from a river but from the rainwater accumulated in the Barranco del Salto.

As explained by Cherif Abderrahman Jah in El enigma del agua en Al-Ándalus, when the groups from Yemen arrived in the Iberian Peninsula, they were already familiar with the technique of the azud, which they had been practicing in their homeland for centuries, even before Christ.

Similar to the Sacred Azud of Calatayud, azudes existed throughout Al-Ándalus, in areas irrigated by river waters in other regions of Aragón, Tarragona, Valencia, Murcia, and Andalusia.

The morphology of these azudes consists of a masonry structure that cuts the current of a river, with deep, stepped foundations on the side towards which the current flows.

CASCO ANTIGUO DE MOROS

Historia:

According to tradition, the origin of the municipality’s name is due to it being a “place of Moors.” It is also thought that its immediate predecessor could have been the village of Manubles or Monubles—now a depopulated area between Ateca and Moros—which would also have given its name to the river. Tradition holds that the castle of Moros was ordered to be built by King Ayubb of the Taifa of Calatayud in the current area of the portilla. Presumably, its purpose was to serve both as a hunting leisure area and, ultimately, as a defense of the border area.

Around 1120, during the Battle of Cutanda, Alfonso I the Battler conquered the Taifa of Calatayud. Thus, in 1131, this king granted a charter and privileges to the Community of Calatayud, including areas from Berdejo to Villafeliche and from Chodes to Calmarza, within the Sesma of the Berdejo River. All of this is confirmed in a papal bull by Pope Lucius III, issued in 1182, in which the church of Moros is mentioned as part of the heritage of the Church of Calatayud. This affirms the existence of the village of Moros.

In 1238, Don Justo de Ateca, secretary to King James I the Conqueror, appointed the Lord of Monegrillo as the keeper of the castle of Moros and organized the soldiers of the town of Moros for the conquest of the Kingdom of Valencia. Furthermore, the locals still claim—based on oral tradition—that the Cid Campeador passed through the Cocanil ravine. The historian Jerónimo Zurita, in 1357, describes the castle of Moros as a stronghold defended by the villagers.

MOLINOS DE PÓLVORA DE VILLAFELICHE

Descripción:

The gunpowder mills and the Royal Gunpowder Factory of Villafeliche, in their more than four hundred years of existence, were one of the main economic activities in the province of Zaragoza and Aragon. Today, now definitively closed, they form an important pre-industrial landscape that, due to its geographical extent and the complexity of the production process, still reflects its past economic, social, and strategic significance. At its peak, nearly two hundred gunpowder mills were located on the outskirts of the Villafeliche settlement, in the sheltered valley of the winds, stretching between the Jiloca River and the Mills’ Path. They were aligned along the axis of the “Mills’ Ditch” for 872 meters in a row, from which they drew the driving water. They were independent from one another to prevent the spread of chain explosions.

Villafeliche shared the gunpowder supply in Spain with the Royal Factories of Granada, Murcia, Manresa, and later Pamplona and Ruidera. This factory operated under a mixed ownership management model, different from the other Royal Factories in Spain: the mills were privately owned, the ditch that supplied them was communally owned, and the Crown was responsible for the management of production, supply of raw materials, and the granting of licenses under the control of the Royal Administrator. This mixed exploitation model from Villafeliche was exported and implemented in America and the Philippines for the creation of colonial factories due to its high profitability and low cost for the royal coffers.

Historia:

Gunpowder originated in China during the 9th century. From there, it was brought to India, and then to the Middle East between 1240 and 1280. It was the Arabs who introduced it to Europe starting in the 13th century. The origins of the gunpowder mills of Villafeliche date back to the Mudejar period, although they reached their peak between the 18th and 19th centuries. At the beginning of the 17th century, the Moriscos were expelled, which significantly reduced the mills’ production capacity. In 1764, there were 165 operating gunpowder mills, and by the year 1800, around 180. They continued operating until 1830, when a decree by Ferdinand VII led to the dismantling of the machinery to prevent any further production.

In the 19th century, gunpowder production fully entered the industrial era with the invention of dynamite by Alfred Nobel. In Spain, King Amadeo I granted a privilege for the production of gunpowder to the Sociedad Española de la Dinamita in 1872. Villafeliche continued to produce gunpowder irregularly until the early 20th century.

MORERÍA DE SAVIÑÁN

Descripción:

In the neighborhood of La Morería stands on the site of the former mosque, upon which the Church of Señoría or San Miguel was built in Mudejar style in the 16th century. It is believed that its tower is the minaret of the old mosque, a much earlier construction, on which the bell tower was later added.

The streets of what was once the Morería of Saviñán, surrounded by walls with gates, are long and narrow, with tightly packed houses, eaves on the roofs, and semicircular brick arches above the doors.

As happened with the Morería of Terrer, it became the property of the Fernández Luna family, established in Chodes since the 12th century. Pedro de Luna, the future Benedict XIII, inherited both morerías from his mother. It was acquired in 1434 by the Community of Villages of Calatayud. Its inhabitants paid tithes of bread and filazas (grain) to the bishop and the chapter of Santa María de Calatayud, just as the people of the Morería of Terrer did.

In the 16th century, with the increase in population, some Moriscos moved to the town of Realengo, although they remained vassals of the Señoría and parishioners of San Miguel. In 1610, about 600 Moriscos were expelled, including Juan Calavera, of whom a verse is still preserved that says: ‘Goodbye to the Valdemoros and also to the new meadow. Stay with God, Trasmón, for Juan Calavera is leaving.’ The current name of what was once the old Morería is the Barrio de la Señoría.

IGLESIA DE SANTA MARÍA DE TOBED

Descripción:

The Church of the Virgin of Tobed is one of the most outstanding and well-known monuments of Aragonese Mudejar art. Three main factors contribute to this. First, it has undergone very few modifications, allowing us, in the 21st century, to view it as it was originally conceived at the time of its construction—something unusual among temples that have adapted their appearance over time with expansions and modifications, often not very well executed. Secondly, this church in Tobed concentrates most of the structural and decorative elements that make up the characteristics of Aragonese Mudejar architecture: the fortress-church typology, a gable richly decorated with protruding brick and tiling, towers with a Hispano-Muslim minaret structure, extensive mural and plasterwork decoration in oculi and windows, and a magnificent wooden ceiling supporting the upper choir at the feet, not to mention a small and curious element, the carillon on the north wall. Finally, a series of documents are known that allow us to establish an approximate chronology for the works, something not very common in Aragonese Mudejar churches. It was these facts and peculiarities that led to its inclusion in the extension of the Aragonese Mudejar as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001.

IGLESIA DE SAN ANDRÉS

Descripción:

From the medieval Mudejar construction, what has been preserved to this day includes the three naves of the church, including their simple ribbed vaults, and the octagonal bell tower, with the exception of the bell chamber. Even within this Mudejar section, two distinct phases, separated by a considerable amount of time, should be differentiated: the first phase, dated around 1249, and a second one which could be placed around 1410-1420. The second phase includes the octagonal Mudejar bell tower, except for the upper bell chamber. This octagonal tower is located at the southwest corner of the church, attached to the perimeter wall of the structure, with the wall functioning as one side of the octagon in its external tower.

COLEGIATA DE SANTA MARÍA

Historia:

As it has been confirmed in the most recent intervention carried out on the building, once Calatayud was conquered in 1120 by the troops of Alfonso I the Battler, a temple dedicated to Santa María was erected on the site of the former main mosque. This temple was consecrated in November 1249 by Don Pedro Albalate, Archbishop of Tarragona, with the attendance of Don Arnaldo Peralta, Bishop of Valencia, and the Bishop of Tarazona, Don García Frontín.

MEDINA ANDALUSÍ DE CALATAYUD

Descripción:

“During the Andalusian period, Calatayud experienced a flourishing era, both economically and culturally. During this time, the irrigation infrastructure for the rich orchards, which still exists today, was created. Industries with long-lasting impact, such as hemp and pottery, developed, and the city contributed to Islam renowned scientists, jurists, poets, and historians, such as Muhammad ibn Suleyman al-Kalbí. However, the history of Madinat Qal’at Ayyub is known only in a fragmentary way.

It is known that during its Andalusian period, Calatayud became the head of an important district that bordered the districts of Zaragoza, Tudela, Medinaceli, and Barusa. It encompassed the valley of the middle Jalón, between Alhama de Aragón and Morata de Jalón, in addition to the valleys of its tributaries Henar, Manubles, Ribota, Piedra, Mesa, Jiloca, and Perejiles. The most important fortresses in this district were Daroca, Somed, Peñalcázar, Deza, Ateca, Aranda de Moncayo, and Maluenda.

In 1120, after having conquered Zaragoza, the King of Aragon, Alfonso I, laid siege to Calatayud, which resisted while waiting for Almoravid help coming from Valencia. However, the Almoravid army was defeated in Cutanda, about 50 km southeast of Calatayud. As a result of the resounding Christian victory, the cities of Calatayud and Daroca and the entire Jalón and Jiloca valleys were handed over.

After the conquest, the newly arrived Aragonese felt the need to increase Christian presence, so the king granted the city a set of privileges and local legal norms, known as the Fueros, which favored the influx of settlers from the North. Under these circumstances, Calatayud continued to maintain its hegemony in the area by forming the Community of Calatayud, which, despite various vicissitudes, persisted until the 19th century. And this remains the name of the region today.”